Picturesque Sketches of London, Past and Present — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Picturesque Sketches of London, Past and Present
John Stuart Mill · en
At the corner of Seething-lane stands the church of Allhallows Barking.
In this lane died Sir Francis Walsingham, who in Elizabeth's time
planted so many spies around the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots. Here
also lived Pepys, adjoining the old Navy-office. He makes frequent
mention of Seething-lane in his _Diary_. The church of Allhallows
Barking very nearly marks the site of the termination of the Great Fire
eastward; for though the church itself escaped destruction, its walls
were licked by the flames and the porch destroyed. A glance at the map
of London will shew its proximity to the Tower, and readily suggest that
many a headless victim was removed from the scaffold to the grave in the
old churchyard of Allhallows. The Earl of Surrey, who was beheaded in
1547, was buried here; also Bishop Fisher, beheaded in 1535, though his
body was afterwards removed; so were the remains of Archbishop Laud. The
first chapel founded on the site of the present church dates as far back
as the time of Richard I.; and there is an old tradition that the heart
of the king of the Crusaders was buried under the altar of that church.
Here Edward I. set up an image of the Virgin Mary, which almost became
as famous as the shrine of Thomas à Becket, so many were the pilgrims
who visited it. Our engraving represents a silver-gilt shrine, in which,
in ancient times, the relics of saints were deposited.
[Illustration: SILVER-GILT SHRINE.]
Richard III. (it may be, to make amends for the murders he caused to be
committed in the adjacent Tower) rebuilt this church, and founded within
it a college of priests. Even now it bears proofs of its great
antiquity, in its massive and stunted Norman pillars, old inscriptions,
ancient monuments, and early brasses, one of the latter dating back
nearly four centuries. There is a story about an explosion of gunpowder,
which destroyed twenty or thirty houses, and in which a cradle, "baby
and all," was blown on the leads of this church, and there found
uninjured.
Seething-lane runs into Hart-street, Crutched Friars, and Jewry-street,
Aldgate. In Hart-street stands the church of St. Olave, so often
mentioned by Pepys. It escaped the Fire, and contains a few tablets well
worth visiting. Some portion of the interior appears to be very ancient,
though I am not able to assign any date to these remains, nor when the
first church was built. Here Pepys and his wife (the "poor wretch" of
his _Diary_) are buried. The chapel in which the Crutched Friars dwelt
was, in Stowe's time, demolished, and its site occupied by a
tennis-court and other buildings.