Roman Mosaics; Or, Studies in Rome and Its Neighbourhood — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Roman Mosaics; Or, Studies in Rome and Its Neighbourhood
John Stuart Mill · en
exclamations of the excited multitude. On the elevated ground behind
the circus is a fringe of olive-trees, with a line of feathery elms
beyond; and rising over all, the purple background of the Sabine and
Alban hills. It is a lonely enough spot now; and the gentle hand of
spring clothes the naked walls with a perfect garden of wild flowers,
and softens with the greenest and tenderest turf the spots trodden by
the feet of so many thousands. In the immediate vicinity of the circus
are extensive ruins, visible and prominent objects from the road,
consisting of large fragments of walls and apses, dispersed among the
vineyards and enclosures.
By far the best-known monument on the Appian Way is the Tomb of
Caecilia Metella. It is a conspicuous landmark in the wide waste, and
catches the eye at a long distance from many points of view. It is as
familiar a feature in paintings of the Campagna almost as the Claudian
Aqueduct. This celebrity it owes to its immense size, its wonderful
state of preservation, and above all to the genius of Lord Byron, who
has made it the theme of some of the most elegant and touching stanzas
in _Childe Harold_. Nothing can be finer than the appearance of this
circular tower in the afternoon, when the red level light of sunset,
striking full upon it, brings out the rich warm glow of its yellow
travertine stones in striking relief against the monotonous green of
the Campagna. It is built on a portion of rising ground caused by a
current of lava which descended from the Alban volcano during some
prehistoric eruption, and stopped short here, forming the quarries on
the left side of the road which supply most of the paving-stone of
modern Rome. The Appian Way was here lowered several feet below the
original level, in order to diminish the acclivity; and the mausoleum
was consequently raised upon a substructure of unequal height
corresponding with the inclination of the plane of ascent. It was
originally cased with marble slabs, but these were stripped off during
the middle ages for making lime; and Pope Clement XII. completed the
devastation by removing large blocks which formed the basement, in
order to construct the picturesque fountain of Trevi. A large portion
of the Doric marble frieze, however, still remains, on which are
sculptured bas-reliefs of rams' heads, festooned with garlands of
flowers. Usually the bas-reliefs are supposed to represent bulls'
heads; and the name of Capo de Bove (the "head of the ox"), by which
the monument has long been known to the common people, is said to be
derived from these ornaments. But a careful examination will convince
any one that they are in reality rams' heads; and the vulgar name of
the tomb was obviously borrowed from the armorial bearings of the
Gaetani family, consisting of an ox's head, affixed prominently upon
it when it served them as a fortress in the thirteenth century. Pope
Boniface VIII., a member of this family, added the curious battlements