until we came to the corner of the last bend above Ismail. It was not
possible to camp at this place, and if we went farther we should have to
pass the town, a proceeding which might result in our being delayed
there for the night. After some hesitation we made up our minds to
paddle across the stream to a gravelly beach under a meadow bordered by
a row of willows, and to land there in face of the sentinel whom we saw
pacing to and fro. The soldier challenged us as we came near, and we
answered that we were travellers and wanted to camp there for the night.
A corporal speedily came up, and one of us, taking the passports,
accompanied him to the officers’ quarters, a half-mile or so across the
fields. Our position was soon explained to the satisfaction of the
lieutenant, who, although not a particularly intelligent specimen of the
officers of the line, readily comprehended the fact that we had no
hostile intentions, and ordered the corporal to see that we were not
molested in our camp, and to send us for our passports in the morning.
In a few minutes we had our camp in order, built a fire, and cooked our
dinner, all to the great entertainment of the soldier on guard, who
watched every operation with the most intense interest. Before we had
finished eating, a
[Illustration: RUSSIAN PICKET POST]
number of officers came down from their quarters to look at our canoes,
and when, a few minutes later, they saw us getting ready for bed,
politely wished us good-night, and went away. Our bivouac was not far
from a country road, and every passer met a prompt challenge from the
soldier, who never deserted our fire except to perform this duty.
Feeling very much as if we were within the lines of an army in war-time,
we retired into the shelter of our tents and left the soldier to whisper
to himself and utter mournful sighs by the few remaining coals. Some
time in the night he was relieved, and the new sentinel withdrew into
the cover of the willow-trees, and did not disturb us in any way. In the
early morning a boat-load of natives rowing up-stream past our camp was
immediately challenged by the guard, and ordered to come ashore. One of
the men landed and carried the passports up to the officers for the
regulation _visé_ before the boat was allowed to proceed. We then
appreciated the fact that we were not treated any differently from the
inhabitants themselves, but that, as far as the Custom-house regulations
went, the river-bank was practically in a state of siege.