In Florence there is a large English population, drawn there by two
powerful attractions. The first is the beauty of the place, with
its healthy climate, its unrivalled collections of art, and its
connection with the world at large. The second is the astonishing
cheapness of living, though, alas! this is greatly changed from
former times, since Florence has become the capital of Italy.
Formerly a palace could be rented for a trifle, troops of servants
for another trifle, and the table could be furnished from day to day
with rarities and delicacies innumerable for another trifle. It is,
therefore, a paradise for the respectable poor, the needy men of
intelligence, and perhaps it may be added, for the shabby genteel.
There is a glorious congregation of dilettante, literati, savans; a
blessed brotherhood of artists and authors; here gather political
philosophers of every grade. It was all this even under the Grand
Duke of refreshing memory; hereafter it will be the same, only,
perhaps, a little more so, under the new influences which it shall
acquire and exert as the metropolis of a great kingdom.
The Florentines are the most polished people under the sun. The
Parisians claim this proud pre-eminence, but it can not be
maintained. Amid the brilliancies of Parisian life there are
fearful memories of bloody revolutions, brutal fights, and
blood-thirsty cruelties. No such events as these mar the fair
pages of later Florentine history. In fact, the forbearance and
gentleness of the people have been perhaps to their disadvantage.
Life in Florence is joy. The sensation of living is of itself a
pleasure. Life in that delicious atmosphere becomes a higher state of
being. It is the proper home for poets and artists. Those who pretend
that there is any thing in America equal to Florence either in
climate, landscape, or atmosphere, are simply humbugs. Florence is
unique. It is the only Athens of the modern world.
[Illustration: Pitti Palace.]
The streets are cool and delightful. The great bath houses keep off
the rays of the sun. The people love to stroll away the greater part
of their happy days. They loiter around the corners or under the
porticoes gathering news and retailing the same. Hand-organs are
generally discountenanced. Happy city!
[Illustration: Fountain Of Neptune, Palazzo Vecchio.]
When it is too hot in the streets there is the vast cathedral--Il
Duomo--dim, shadowy, magnificent, its gigantic dome surpassed only
by that of St. Peter's. And yet in the twilight of this sacred
interior, where there dwells so much of the mysterious gloom only
found in the Gothic cathedrals of the north, many find greater
delight than in all the dazzling splendor, the pomp, and glory, and
majesty of the Roman temple. Beside it rises the Campanile, as fair
as a dream, and in appearance almost as unsubstantial. Not far off
is the Baptistery, with its gates of bronze--an assemblage of glory
which might well suffice for one city.
[Illustration: The Duomo.]