It was not on the voyage to Batanga, but on subsequent voyages along the
lower coast, to the Congo, to St. Paul de Loanda and Benguela, that I
was fully impressed with the service of the black man to the white and
the disposition to cruelty on the part of the latter. For it is south
of Batanga that the natives employed on the steamer do their hardest
work. What I saw and heard on those several voyages gave ample food
for reflection upon the moral danger of unrestrained authority and the
unfitness of most men to govern their fellows of lower degree. I was
allowed to remain absorbed in my own thoughts as there were but few
passengers on board; on one such journey I was the only passenger for
three weeks out of five.
After leaving Sierra Leone on the outward voyage the course changes
eastward. A few days later we sighted the coast of Liberia and nearly
opposite Monrovia we anchored and waited for eighty black men who were
shipped as workmen for the rest of the voyage. We anchored far out at
sea; for the Liberian coast is very rough and dangerous, and for most of
the entire coast the latest charts are more than fifty years old.
These workmen belong to the Kru tribe. They do all the work of
discharging and taking on cargo for the entire voyage, remaining on
board for the round trip—usually three or four months—and receiving in
payment an average of a shilling a day. We do not call them “Krumen,”
but “Kruboys,” for in Africa they are boys till they die.
The Kruboys are the “real thing,” the Africans that you have pictured in
your imagination and have read about, and at the sight of them coming
off in a fleet of large canoes, accompanied by the whole population,
almost stark naked—the majority wearing a bit of calico the size of a
pocket-handkerchief—black and savage, and each of them yelling like ten
savages, the ladies on board usually hurry down to their cabins and
remain for a while in obscurity. Ropes are thrown over to the Kruboys
and they climb the side of the ship like monkeys. At closer view they
do not appear savage at all. Every face reveals laughing good-nature,
and each man looking after his simple necessities in a businesslike way
makes himself as comfortable as possible, and yells as loud as possible,
while he asks for what he wants and declares to all on board what he
is going to do, though he does not seem to expect anybody to listen to
him or to pay any attention to him. There is considerable disputation,
some quarrelling, and an occasional fight. They have a remarkable way of
passing from laughter to quarrel and from fight to song by the easiest
sort of transition: passion does not linger.