Matadi is not much more than a railroad terminus. Between the Lower
and Upper Congo, that is, between Matadi and Leopoldville, on Stanley
Pool, the river is not navigable, owing to the rapids. A railroad two
hundred and fifty miles long unites these two places. It was built at a
tremendous cost both of money and of life. Out of four hundred Chinese
imported at one time, for work on the railroad, two hundred and fifty
died within three years. Kruboys and others were brought from the north
and engaged to work according to a certain definite contract; but in most
cases the contract was disregarded and they were practically enslaved,
working until they died. The railroad, the _Chemin de Fer du Congo_, is
exceedingly useful and has also proved a paying investment. The fare from
Matadi to Leopoldville, two hundred and fifty miles, was fifty dollars,
when I was at Matadi, that is, twenty cents a mile. But I imagine that
those who had made the journey on foot over that rough country, did not
begrudge the exorbitant fare.
Henry M. Stanley, starting from Matadi, blasted the rocks in order to
make a road by which the sections of his boat could be dragged along _en
route_ to the Upper Congo. Until I visited Matadi I did not know the
meaning of the name which the natives gave to Stanley, _Bula Matadi_.
It means _Breaker of Rocks_—a name to be proud of, surely; and one
which Stanley deserved. His authority was superseded by that of the
government of the Congo, which to this day is called by the natives
_Bula Matadi—Breaker of Rocks_ and incidentally of _men_. It happened
that Consul Casement was at Matadi; and the captain and I were invited
to a picnic which was given in his honour. It was a novel experience for
Africa. We rowed down the river and landed for our lunch in a peculiar
and pleasant place on piles of rock, of historic and even legendary
interest.
During those days there was a representative missionary gathering
at Matadi and I had the opportunity of meeting and conversing with
missionaries from all over the Congo Free State. Some of them I had
known before. All whom I met had but one story to tell in regard to the
“Belgian atrocities,” a story that might have been a chapter from the
history of Hell.