Meanwhile I put on a suit of white drill, such as I have described, a
white helmet, and white shoes. Thus attired in the regulation best I go
aboard and take breakfast with the captain, who gives me all the news of
the coast. If he has cargo for the mission I wait until it is discharged
on the beach, and then go ashore and have it carried up to the mission
storeroom. When this is done I read my letters. But I sometimes carried
the bundle of them around with me full half a day before reading them;
and I always waited until I could close the door of my study and give the
order that I was not to be disturbed.
But an urgent duty awaits me. A technical and minute declaration in
French must be made of any and all the goods that have arrived. In
declaring provisions, for instance, the different provisions in a given
box must be declared separately, with the weight of each. The boxes, of
course, could not be opened under any circumstances until everything
was declared and a permit received. But if the bills of lading should be
delayed, or if they were not made out with all the particular weights,
there was endless trouble. I could not open the boxes until I made the
declaration, and I could not make the declaration until I opened the
boxes. In such a case, after much waiting and annoyance, an officer
would come and I would open the boxes in his presence. Sometimes these
declarations were very troublesome. In one instance there was malted milk
in one of the boxes. I did not know how to declare it; for I could not
imagine under what class it would come. That I might make no mistake,
and run the risk of a fine, I sent some malted milk that I had already
on hand to the _chef_ of the _douanes_ telling him what it was and how
it was made, and asking him how I should declare it. After a day’s
consideration he wrote advising me that malted milk should be declared as
_pain d’épice_—_spiced bread_. But if the rules and regulations bothered
me, I must say that the French custom-officers are, I believe, the most
courteous and obliging in the world, and a striking contrast to American
custom-officers.