During the following dry season we employed a force of men in making a
new road, the present road from Batanga to Efulen. It is practically
straight, and therefore much shorter than the old road, so that a good
walker can make the journey in three days. Moreover, it follows higher
ground and is more dry. We also cut down many trees along the way, which
relieved the gloom, although the road still passes beneath a leafy arcade
sufficient to protect from the sun. We improved the bridges and wherever
possible made a bridge by felling a tree. But the native roads, except
the few that have been improved by white men, are still such as I have
described. It happened also that most of our journeys were at first made
in the wet season. After the first year, however, that was no longer
necessary, and we began to feel that the pioneer period was drawing to a
close. But I presume that those who now live at Efulen and other interior
stations, in journeys to the further interior, especially to towns off
the main road, if they travel in the wet season, find just such roads as
we first travelled.
The last time I walked from Efulen during my first term in Africa, I
enjoyed the journey. The forest was more dry than I had believed it could
be. The ground was strewn with leaves suggestive of our autumn. Nor
was it dark and depressing as before. Upon the forest-canopy of green,
supported by tall columns of sombre gray, the light danced and played
like sunshine on rippling water and shone through in silvery streams and
shifting golden bars. The forest floor was a humus of soft mould and
light, dry leaves. The low green undergrowth, closing the path before
and behind me, now that it was not dripping with water, was attractive,
and gave a pleasant sense of privacy combining with the subtle sense
of companionship with the vast life of the great forest. For it was no
longer the dead, repellent jungle of some months ago, but a real forest
in which one loves to walk alone, a forest full of mystery and spiritual
suggestion, whose stillness speaks to us in a language that we strive to
understand, or gives, as Tennyson says, “A hint of somewhat unexprest:”
“’Tis not alone the warbling woods,
The starred abysses of the sky,
The silent hills, the stormy floods,
The green, that fills the eye.—
These only do not move the breast;
Like some wise Artist, Nature gives
Through all her works, to each that lives,
A hint of somewhat unexprest.”