In the wet season I always walked in company with the caravan; but in the
dry season I preferred to walk alone, and often left the carriers far
behind me, scattered along the road in different groups. At a fork in
the road I always threw a handful of fresh leaves upon the road that I
followed, as a sign to the carriers that they might be sure to take the
same way. Never but once did they fail to follow me. On that occasion
some of the carriers were boys of a strange tribe, the Galway, more used
to waterways than to bush roads. Until the last evening they had walked
behind others who were familiar with bush travel and whom they could
follow heedlessly. But that evening it happened that the Galway were
ahead and they took the wrong road, not observing my sign of the leaves
on the path, and the whole caravan went astray except two carriers who
were far behind and separated from the others. To follow their misfortune
to the issue, the Galway got separated from the rest of the caravan and
arrived at Batanga two days late, famished with hunger and frightened
half to death.
Meanwhile, I had walked on far ahead until I thought that the carriers
might require all the daylight that was left to catch me, and then I
stopped and waited for them; though I had not yet reached the camp. As
time passed and no carriers appeared I began to feel uneasy. The chill
of the evening was approaching, and I had not even a coat; so I began to
walk back and forth rapidly to keep warm. Finally, two carriers arrived.
One of them had my food, which was fortunate; but the other had nothing
that I wanted on the road. The lost Galway had my bed and extra clothing,
and even the matches. We waited for them anxiously and called loudly,
but there was no answer. Then swiftly, as always in the forest of the
tropics, the day turned into night: “At one stride comes the dark.” A
heavy, palpable darkness, like smoke, enshrouded us and rose higher till
it blotted out the leafy canopy and blackened the very sky. The opacity
of the darkness was such that we could not see each other, nor could I
see my hand when I placed it before my eyes.