The well-known hotel kept by Madame Palumbo, who is thoroughly conversant
with English ways and requirements, occupies a delightful position in the
old aristocratic quarter of Ravello known as “Il Toro,” the name of which
is still retained in the interesting little church of San Giovanni del
Toro close by. This comfortable hostelry has been constructed out of the
_Vescovado_, the ancient episcopal residence, and it still retains many
curious and attractive features of the original building, notably the
quaint little stair-way that descends from the bishop’s private chamber
into the chapel, which is now the _salon_ of the hotel. With its
magnificent views, its interesting buildings and its pure exhilarating
air, Ravello would seem to be an ideal spot wherein to linger, and it
affords a most agreeable change in the later Spring months from the close
atmosphere and enervating heat of Amalfi or the coast towns. Perched on
this breezy hill-top, from the terrace of the hotel can be observed the
whole circuit of the Bay of Salerno, whilst behind to the north and east
the ring of enclosing mountains rises sharp and distinct against the sky.
From this point we are presented with a complete view of the territories
of the ancient Republic, spread out like a map beneath our feet and
stretching from the Punta della Campanella to the heights above Vietri,
and backed by the arid grey mountain peaks. If the garden of the Hotel
Palumbo seems a fitting place wherein to idle or to dream, might not it
also appeal to some historian, not tied to time nor to the hard necessity
of money-making, as a suitable spot for the conception of a history of the
origin, rise, decline and fall of the great maritime Republic, whose
dominions, still smiling and populous, surround Ravello on all sides?
Gibbon found the first suggestion for his Roman History whilst musing upon
the ruins of the Capitol, and he finished his great work in a Swiss garden
amidst the scent of acacia bloom; might not the annals of the Amalfitan
Republic likewise spring from reflections made upon this terrace, where
the memories of a former greatness still beautiful in its decay must
operate so powerfully? Well, perhaps some future Gibbon—or more probably
some budding Mommsen—may in time present the world with a true impartial
and erudite history of the Costiera d’Amalfi.
We bask lazily in the afternoon sunshine, to the soft, rather soporific
cooing of some caged doves, that live in the back-ground out of sight
behind a screen of lemon trees in huge red jars, such as Morgiana must
have been familiar with. Beyond the terrace wall we note the carefully
tended vines, precious plants, for their grapes produce the delicate
_Episcopio_ wine, perhaps the choicest vintage to be obtained around
Naples, and boasting a flavour and bouquet that are rarely to be
encountered except in the products of the most celebrated vineyards of
France or Germany.