carefully avoid all chances of being bitten during the months of July and
August.
Before our goal can be reached it is necessary for us to cross the broad
willow-fringed stream of the Sele, the Silarus of antiquity, which
according to the testimony of Silius Italicus once possessed the property
of petrifying wood. In the distant days of the eighteenth century, the
traveller to Paestum had to endure amidst other difficulties and dangers
of the road the disagreeable business of being ferried across the Sele,
which was then bridgeless. Owing to the malaria and the loneliness of the
spot, the acting of ferryman over this river was not an agreeable post,
and Count Stolberg, a German dilettante who has left some memories of his
Italian wanderings, relates how a feeble dismal soured old man, a
veritable Charon of the upper air, had great difficulty in conveying
himself, his horse and his servant across the swollen stream. The old
man’s age and misery aroused the Count’s compassion, so that he asked him
why he continued thus to perform a task at once so arduous and so
distasteful. “Sir,” replied the boatman, “I would gladly be excused, but
that my master compels me to undertake this work.” “And who, pray, is this
tyrant of a master of yours?” indignantly enquired the Count. “Sir, it is
my Lord Poverty!” grimly answered the old ferryman, as he pocketed the
Teuton’s fee. Times have changed with regard to the necessity of a ferry
over the Sele, but to judge from the appearance of the people and from the
accounts in the journals, we much doubt if my Lord Poverty’s sway has been
much weakened in these parts.