The Naples Riviera — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
The Naples Riviera
John Stuart Mill · en
the feudal Counts of Capaccio, besieged and utterly destroyed this
stronghold of the mountains that had been the child of Poseidonia of the
sea-girt plains. Another and a yet loftier retreat had to be sought by the
survivors of the Imperial vengeance, so that the ruined Capaccio the Old
was abandoned for another settlement, which still exists as a miserable
village amidst those barren hills that had ever looked down with jealous
envy upon the proud city with its pillared temples. One curious
circumstance with regard to Paestum must finally be mentioned, in that the
existence of its ruins, the grandest and most ancient group of monuments
on the mainland of Italy, remained unknown to the learned world until
comparatively modern times. Only the local peasants and the inhabitants of
the poverty-stricken towns in the Lucanian hills seem to have been aware
of the presence of the gigantic temples standing in lonely majesty by the
shore and as the superstitious nature of these ignorant people attributed
these structures to the work of a magician—perhaps to the great wizard
Vergil himself—they were shunned both by night and by day as the haunt of
malignant spirits. Poor fisher-folk and buffalo-drivers, who had of
necessity to pass near the ruined fanes, were wont to slink by in fear and
trembling, and doubtless they brought back strange stories of its ghostly
occupants with which they regaled their friends or families by the
fire-side of a winter’s evening. Yet it is most strange that during the
period of the Renaissance, at a time when enthusiastic research was being
made into the neglected antiquities of Italy, this unique group of Doric
temples should have escaped notice. For neither Cyriaco of Ancona nor
Leandro Alberti, who visited Lucania ostensibly for the sake of recording
its classical remains, make mention of “the ruined majesty of Paestum,”
and it was reserved for a certain Count Gazola (whose name is certainly
worthy of being recorded), an officer in the service of the Neapolitan
King, to present to the notice of scholars and archaeologists towards the
middle of the eighteenth century the first known description of what is
perhaps Italy’s chief existing treasure of antiquity. From Gazola’s day
onward the beauty and interest of Paestum have been appraised at their
true worth, and numberless artists and writers of almost every nationality
have sketched or described its marvellous temples.