Crossing the little river Arco, we proceed uphill through the region of
vines and olives, until we have passed the Punta di Scutolo, where begins
our descent into that famous tract of country, the Piano di Sorrento, a
plateau above the cliffs, some four miles in length by one in breadth.
Poets of antiquity and bards of the Middle Ages alike have sung the
delights of the Sorrentine Plain, and have painted in glowing colours of
inspired verse its race of happy peasants, its fruitful fields and
orchards, its luscious vines, its excellent flocks. Galen, the cunning old
physician, recommended to his nervous patients what would now be termed a
“rest cure” in these favoured regions; whilst the grateful Bernardo Tasso,
father of the immortal Torquato, speaks of the capital of this district as
“l’Albergo della Cortesia,” and in an ecstasy of delighted appreciation,
goes on to add: “l’aere e si sereno, si temperato, si salutifero, si
vitale, che gli uomini che senza provar altero cielo ci vivono sono quasi
immortali.” And though praise from Torquato’s courtly sire must not be
taken too seriously, yet few will deny that the beautiful plain deserves
many of the eulogies that have been showered upon it. At the small town of
Meta, the next place of importance after Sorrento itself, the road divides
at the Church of the Madonna of the Laurel: our way to Amalfi leading
southward over the opposing ridge—the “Sorrentini Colles” of Ovid—whilst
the other traverses the length of the plain by way of Pozzopiano and Sant’
Agnello, until it reaches Sorrento.
One prominent feature of this district has already attracted our
attention; the number of deep ravines with which the whole plain is
intersected. These natural clefts are marvellously lovely in their rich
luxuriance of foliage, and with their precipitous sides and verdure-clad
depths will recall the wonderful _latomiè_, the ancient stone-quarries of
Syracuse. Their depths are filled with orange and lemon trees, mingled
with sable spires of cypress and the tall forms of bays, which here bear
jet-black berries, such as are rarely seen in our northern clime; whilst
the edges of the cliffs are clothed with a serried mass of wild flowers;
red valerian, crimson snap-dragon, tall blue campanulas, the dark green
wild fennel, white-blossoming cistus, and a hundred other plants, gay with
colour and strong with aromatic perfume.
“The quarry’s edge is lined with many a plant,
With many a flower distilling fragrant dew
From brightly coloured petals. Almond trees
Give snowy promise of sweet leaves and fruit;
Here all the scented tangle of the South
Covers the boulders, calcined by the sun
To pearly whiteness; thorn or asphodel
Sprout from each cranny of the topmost ledge
To nod against the deep blue sky, or peer
Into the verdure-clad abyss below.”