The Old Red Sandstone; or, New Walks in an Old Field
John Stuart Mill · en
In all the sedimentary formations the peculiarities of scenery depend
on three circumstances--on the Plutonic agencies, the denuding
agencies, and the manner and proportions in which the harder and
softer beds of the deposits on which these operated alternate with
one another. There is an union of the active and the passive in the
formation of landscape; that which disturbs and grinds down, and that
which, according to its texture and composition, affects, if I may
so speak, a peculiar style of being ground down and disturbed; and
it is in the passive circumstances that the peculiarities chiefly
originate, Hence it is that the scenery of the Chalk differs from
the scenery of the Oolite, and both from that of the Coal Measures.
The Old Red Sandstone has also its peculiarities of prospect, which
vary according to its formations, and the amount and character of the
disturbing and denuding agencies to which these have been exposed.
Instead, however, of crowding its various, and, in some instances,
dissimilar features into one landscape, I shall introduce to the
reader a few of its more striking and characteristic scenes, as
exhibited in various localities, and by different deposits, beginning
first with its conglomerate base.
The great antiquity of this deposit is unequivocally indicated
by the manner in which we find it capping, far in the interior,
in insulated beds and patches, some of our loftier hills, or, in
some instances, wrapping them round, as with a caul, from base
to summit. It mixes largely, in our northern districts, with the
mountain scenery of the country, and imparts strength and boldness
of outline to every landscape in which it occurs. Its island-like
patches affect generally a bluff parabolic or conical outline; its
loftier hills present rounded, dome-like summits, which sink to
the plain on the one hand in steep, slightly concave lines, and on
the other in lines decidedly convex, and a little less steep. The
mountain of boldest outline in 'the line of the Caledonian Valley
(Mealforvony) is composed externally of this rock. Except where
covered by the diluvium, it seems little friendly to vegetation.
Its higher summits are well nigh as bare as those of the primary
rocks; and when a public road crosses its lower ridges, the traveller
generally finds that there is no paving process necessary to procure
a hardened surface, for his wheels rattle over the pebbles embedded
in the rock. On the sea-coast, in several localities, the deposit
presents striking peculiarities of outline. The bluff and rounded
precipices stand out in vast masses, that affect the mural form, and
present few of the minuter angularities of the primary rocks. Here
and there a square buttress of huge proportions leans against the
front of some low-browed crag, that seems little to need any such
support, and casts a length of shadow athwart its face. There opens
along the base of the rock a line of rounded, shallow caves, or what