The Spell of the Rockies — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
The Spell of the Rockies
John Stuart Mill · en
After a walk through woods the sun came blazing in our faces past the
snow-piled crags on Long's Peak, and threw slender blue shadows of the
spiry spruces far out in a white glacier meadow to meet us. Rëentering
the tall but open woods, we saw, down the long aisles and limb-arched
avenues, a forest of tree columns, entangled in sunlight and shadow,
standing on a snowy marble floor.
[Illustration: ON GRAND RIVER, MIDDLE PARK, IN WINTER]
We were on the Pacific slope, and our plan was to cross the summit
by the shortest way between timber-line and timber-line on the
Atlantic side. This meant ascending a thousand feet, descending an
equal distance, traveling five miles amid bleak, rugged environment.
Along the treeless, gradual ascent we started, realizing that the last
steep icy climb would be dangerous and defiant. Most of the snow had
slid from the steeper places, and much of the remainder had blown
away. Over the unsheltered whole the wind was howling. For a time the
sun shone dimly through the wind-driven snow-dust that rolled from the
top of the range, but it disappeared early behind wild, windswept
clouds.
After gaining a thousand feet of altitude through the friendly forest,
we climbed out and up above the trees on a steep slope at timber-line.
This place, the farthest up for trees, was a picturesque, desolate
place. The dwarfed, gnarled, storm-shaped trees amid enormous
snow-drifts told of endless, and at times deadly, struggles of the
trees with the elements. Most of the trees were buried, but here and
there a leaning or a storm-distorted one bent bravely above the
snows.
At last we were safely on a ridge and started merrily off, hoping to
cover speedily the three miles of comparatively level plateau.
How the wind did blow! Up more than eleven thousand feet above the
sea, with not a tree to steady or break, it had a royal sweep. The
wind appeared to be putting forth its wildest efforts to blow us off
the ridge. There being a broad way, I kept well from the edges. The
wind came with a dash and heavy rush, first from one quarter, then
from another. I was watchful and faced each rush firmly braced.
Generally, this preparedness saved me; but several times the wind
apparently expanded or exploded beneath me, and, with an upward toss,
I was flung among the icy rocks and crusted snows. Finally I took to
dropping and lying flat whenever a violent gust came ripping among the
crags.
There was an arctic barrenness to this alpine ridge,--not a house
within miles, no trail, and here no tree could live to soften the
sternness of the landscape or to cheer the traveler. The way was amid
snowy piles, icy spaces, and windswept crags.