Activity kept me warm, although the cold rain drenched me and the
slipperiness of slopes and ledges never allowed me to forget the law
of falling bodies. At last a roaring torrent told me that I was at the
bottom of a slope. Apparently I had come down by the very place where
the stream contracted and dashed into a deep, narrow box cañon. Not
being able to go down stream or make a crossing at this point, I
turned and went up the stream for half a mile or so, where I crossed
the swift, roaring water in inky darkness on a fallen Douglas
spruce,--for such was the arrangement of its limbs and the feel of the
wood in its barkless trunk, that these told me it was a spruce, though
I could see nothing. During this night journey I put myself both in
feeling and in fact in a blind man's place,--the best lesson I ever
had to develop deliberation and keenness of touch.
The next hour after crossing the stream I spent in climbing and
descending a low wooded ridge with smooth surface and gentle slopes.
Then there was one more river, the Little Cimarron, to cross. An
Engelmann spruce, with scaly, flaky bark, that had stood perfectly
perpendicular for a century or two but had recently been hurled to the
horizontal, provided a long, vibrating bridge for me to cross on. Once
across, I started to climb the most unstable mountain that I had ever
trodden.
[Illustration: NEAR THE TOP OF MT. COXCOMB]
Mt. Coxcomb, up which I climbed, is not one of the "eternal hills" but
a crumbling, dissolving, tumbling, transient mountain. Every hard rain
dissolves, erodes, and uncovers the sides of this mountain as if it
were composed of sugar, paste, and stones. It is made up of a confused
mingling of parts and masses of soluble and flinty materials. Here
change and erosion run riot after every rain. There is a great falling
to pieces; gravity, the insatiable, is temporarily satisfied, and the
gulches feast on earthy materials, while the river-channel is glutted
with crushed cliffs, acres of earth, and the débris of ruined forests.
Here and there these are flung together in fierce confusion.
On this bit of the wild world's stage are theatrical lightning changes
of scenes,--changes that on most mountains would require ten thousand
years or more. It is a place of strange and fleeting landscapes; the
earth is ever changing like the sky. In wreathed clouds a great cliff
is born, stands out bold and new in the sunshine and the blue. The
Storm King comes, the thunders echo among crags and cañons, the broken
clouds clear away, and the beautiful bow bends above a ruined cliff.