These weighmen constitute a distinct feature of every cheese market
in Holland. Their dress may seem ludicrous and their duties a bit
undignified, but they go about their calling with all the seriousness
of statesmen. Until recently they were divided, one might say, into
four colors: red, blue, green, and yellow, as distinguished by their
hat bands. Latterly, a fifth color, orange, has been added. In the
weigh-house there are five pairs of scales, each pair painted a
different color corresponding to the colors of the weighmen. The “red”
weighmen must weigh their barrowfuls of cheeses upon the “red” scales;
the “blue” weighmen, upon the “blue” scales, and so on. An Alkmaar
cheese weighman holds a life position, is elected by the community, and
receives in commissions a certain percentage, determined by the value
of the cheeses, of each hundred kilos weighed, or fraction thereof.
At ten o’clock promptly the heavy sheets of canvas are dragged from
the piles. The market is thus officially opened, and for the ensuing
two hours the visitor will be treated to some of the shrewdest of
shrewd Dutch bargaining. The stolid, unemotional makers of cheeses
stand doggedly by their respective piles, while the crafty wholesale
merchants flit hither and yon testing. Not a word passes between them
other than a surly “how d’ y’ do” in Dutch. The merchant selects
a cheese at random, jams into it an instrument that any competent
housewife might mistake for an apple corer, gives it a twist, pulls it
out slowly, and tastes the end of the sample thus taken. What remains
of the sample is drawn from the instrument, slipped back into the
parent cheese, and the tester moves along to attack another pile.