Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
Cannes is very picturesquely situated. The old town, which is not
savoury, fortunately rests out of sight upon an elevation or ridge
which is crowned by the cathedral church and two old towers, which give
a distinctive mark to the place, and are seen in most representations
of Cannes. From this height, and still better from greater heights
behind the town, an admirable view is obtained all round. But taking
our position on the ridge, we find the hill slopes down from it
away to the south, and reaching the road below, extends seaward by
a short projection, partly natural and partly artificial, forming
a breakwater on one side, and pier on the other, terminated by a
lighthouse. The ridge and this projection divide the waters into two
distinct portions, constituting the east and west bays. About two to
three miles to the southward, Les Isles de Lerins, two long strips of
islands—Ste. Marguerite, with its fortifications fronting the town,
and St. Honorat—lie stretched along, giving a natural shelter on the
south to the little port of Cannes, and, except in the neighbourhood
of the fort, both covered with tall pine trees. The harbour or port,
surrounded on two sides by lofty houses, warehouses, and public
buildings or hotels, is right under us, on the east side of the ridge,
and does not aspire to receiving more than a few sloops or vessels
of small burden and a large number of boats, apparently intended
principally for pleasure sailing—although, if this be their purpose,
the number seemed out of all proportion to the slender demand. On the
north side of this bay, the new town—the business part of Cannes—has
been built. The main street, long, and lined with numerous shops, runs
through the centre of it, with streets branching off right and left.
It is the highway to Nice, and forms part of the famous Corniche road,
which proceeds from Marseilles to Genoa along the coast. Immediately
behind the town, the ground rises, and at one part becomes a low hill
crowned by a few straggling houses and solitary trees. A handsome
promenade has been constructed along the beach, upon which a few of the
best hotels and some magnificent villas, with their large interposing
gardens full of exotic trees and plants, are situated, imparting a
bright and gay look to the walk. About a mile and a half or two miles
to the eastward of our point of view, we see a range of hills, the
shoulder of which is called California. This range, covered with pine
trees, affords shelter to Cannes from the east wind; and from its
extremity at California, the hill slopes sharply down, and then the
ground runs far out into the water, forming a projecting arm. The last
portion, of level ground, called the Croisette, reaches to a point
not far from the island of St. Marguerite, and constitutes a natural
breakwater to the bay and harbour on the east side. Some miles farther
to the eastward, the long, low, hilly, narrow, projecting promontory