Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
It is at all times difficult to realize a place from description,
even with the aid of the pictorial art; but perhaps from this short
delineation it may be perceived that there is a marked character about
the site, locality, and features of Cannes. But when to the natural
formation the glorious colouring is added which it derives from the
brilliant blue of the ocean and the scarcely less brilliant blue of the
sky in the bright sunny days which usually mark the weather; the rich
varied greens of the abounding foliage; the tropical character of the
gardens; and the enlivening effect produced by the often fanciful forms
of the houses, painted in luminous whites and yellows picked out upon
their jalousies with green and other contrasting tints, and glowing in
their red–tiled roofs, it will at once be seen that there must be a
signal beauty and picturesqueness about the landscape which cannot fail
to arrest the eyes of those to whom this phase of scenery is new.
* * * * *
But Cannes was never a town of any importance until Lord Brougham took
up his residence there. It happened in the year 1831 that his lordship
was detained at Cannes by the prevalence somewhere of a pestilence.
He was so much struck with the natural features of the landscape and
the suitability of the place for winter residence, and so impressed,
that he soon thereafter acquired ground on the west bay, where he
built a house, to which he used regularly every winter to resort, and
where, on 7th May 1868, he died. His example brought many English
people to the locality, and Cannes is now in the winter season such
a place of fashionable resort for English and Scotch families, that
it may be regarded as completely an English colony, there being but
a sprinkling of other nationalities. It is accordingly in both bays
studded with villas, and filled with numerous large hotels, the latter
said to number upwards of fifty. There are no less than three English
(Episcopal) churches, and in the west bay, near the town (the handsome
gift of Sir John M’Neill, who has a residence in the suburbs), a Scotch
Presbyterian church. There are also both French and German churches.
The population of Cannes has increased wonderfully since Lord Brougham
led the fashion to it, and it is now, I believe, considerably over
10,000. A monument has been erected to his lordship in the cemetery
where he is buried, and a marble bust of him has, on a long square
pillar pedestal, been placed in the public gardens of the west bay.
When we were last at Cannes (November 1877), it was proposed by the
municipal authorities to hold a centenary celebration of the birth of
Lord Brougham as the virtual founder of the town; and this festival has
since (April 1879) been held, lasting four days. Nor is it any wonder
that the Cannais should feel themselves under a debt of gratitude to
the great English, or rather Scottish, lord. The following paragraph