Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
Although Mentone thus possesses so many walks and excursions in its
neighbourhood, of which only a few have been touched upon, there
are some people who, going there, fancy that it is an unattractive
place. The fact is, that these people do nothing but walk up and down
the promenade, perhaps also proceeding a short way up one or two of
the valleys, and in all likelihood never even so much as venturing
through the obstructions to the pier or the breakwater wall in course
of formation, and now extending some length, from which one of the
best views of the mountain range is to be had. It may be imagined,
therefore, that a monotonous perambulation up and down the same road,
however attractive in itself, may in time become tiresome, even if
we put out of consideration those numerous dullards upon whom fine
scenery or the charms of nature are altogether lost. In reality,
however, it is one of the most captivating promenades to be found
anywhere; and I always felt it to be in itself a very cheerful scene,
whether when gay with its moving crowds in a morning, or when in the
quiet repose of still life. But although preferring a quieter time,
it is when thronged and all ‘the world’ of Mentone is there that
seemingly to most people it is most inviting; and between the hours of
10 A.M. and 12, the Promenade du Midi is alive with promenaders, for
the earlier part of the day is considered to be the best period for
so walking. Twelve o’clock is the general lunch or early dinner hour,
and after that, or even before, the wind sometimes rises; but before
12, it is usually warm—nay, hot; and many men as well as women walk
out with white parasols (lined with green), and many with blue goggle
spectacles, to protect their precious eyes from the white glitter of
the road. Although the glistering blaze of the sun upon the water,
if caught direct, is too dazzling to abide, I never personally found
either the heat or the general glare so oppressive as to require these
protections, and it rather appeared to me that it was beneficial
to accustom the eyes to the light. On certain days a band of music
plays in the gardens in the afternoon (at other times playing at the
_cirque_, or at the new gardens at the East End), but we seldom heard
it, except by accident, as we devoted the afternoon to more distant
walks. To some people, however, the music was evidently an unfailing
attraction, although, so far as I could judge, the audiences were
mainly confined to French and Germans, and other continentals, who,
with some excellent exceptions, never seem to have any enjoyment beyond
occasionally a little light reading, a good deal of idle smoking, or
an endless elaborate thrumming on pianos, and on whom, therefore,
time hangs heavily. English people, women especially, have generally
an occupation of some kind. In reading, writing, sketching, and other
occupations, I was never myself without employment, and sometimes was
pressed enough for time.