Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
which the providence of Mentone has placed here and there to lessen
the lassitude of the human frame. In the very nick of time we luckily
discover a warning label, and are thankful we have not become for the
day men of mark; for the bright green seat, so delightfully clean and
pretty and enticing, has just been repainted. We look out for another,
for the sun is hot, and our limbs are getting jaded, and fortunately
detect one to which the attention of the municipal adorners of Mentone
has not as yet been directed.
And now pass in review before us all the inhabitants—no, not all the
inhabitants, but a considerable section of the visitors, intermingled
with a few of the residents of this remarkable place. Here comes a
short Cockney, broiling in a long Noah’s Ark Ulster—the young man has
no other upper coat, and, besides, it adds a span to his stature. Then
follow him in a row, three or four tall, lanky young Dutchmen in their
dapper little coatees. Then a party of German ladies, plump in figure
and peculiar in their body–gear and head–dress, their good looks set
off by a most comfortable–looking ruff or frill about the neck. They
are accompanied by a fair German gentleman in gold spectacles. As they
pass, their ‘Yahs’ and their ‘Achs’ betray their origin. Close after
saunters along a pleasant–looking clergyman, who, far from official
cares, wisely doffs official costume, and is accompanied by two
blooming English daughters. Near to him follows meditatively a priest
without daughters, whose bluish–black cheeks and chin disclose it to be
three days off from last shaving night. Now we must feel nervous and
think and shake about our misdeeds, for who should follow in the full
dignity of office but an imposing gendarme with fierce moustache, and
in cocked hat and hot blue cloth clothing, adorned by yards of twisted
cord, and swinging a murderous sword by his side. The little boys
could see him a mile off. We breathe more freely when he is past—this
terrible man of office. But nothing afraid, three women of Mentone are
close upon his heels, perhaps in gaping admiration. Two of them bear
on their heads each a large basket of dirty clothes they are taking to
some dirty pool to wash. The third leads a child, and wears a broad
Mentone flat hat, 16 inches wide at the very least. All are sturdy,
and their carriage is erect. The little child wears a red hood, which
tightly fits the round bullet head, and descends upon the neck and
shoulders. The women wear short woollen jackets reaching to the waist,
their lower drapery decently short. Another woman is behind, dressed
similarly, except that, instead of hat, she, in common with most other
native women, ties a coloured handkerchief round her head, and thus
with a presumable thickness of bone beneath becomes proof against solar
heat. Then succeed rows or groups of unmistakeable English in all
varieties of home costume, suitable or unsuitable, though occasionally