Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
An excursion to Monte Carlo and Monaco is one which even the most
inveterate promenade walkers will at times take; and it is, indeed,
a very favourite one with most Mentone visitors, many going weekly,
and even oftener. The distance to Monte Carlo is about six or eight
miles, and young people occasionally walk it. Driving by carriage is
undoubtedly a most enjoyable mode of going. The road, after passing
some elegant villas, including the palace of the Carnoles family, the
former residence at Mentone of the princes of Monaco, for great part
of the way is bordered by olive and other trees, embosomed in the
midst of which, here and there, are brightly–painted houses and large
villas with a grand background of lofty mountains. Glorious views are
had by the way not merely of the mountain scenery, but of the bays,
of Cape Martin, of Rochebrune, of white–terraced Monte Carlo, and of
the singular projecting rock of Monaco with its castellated walls
and buildings, and overtopping it, rising with great abruptness, the
mountain called Tête de Chien, resembling very much in shape Salisbury
Crags at home, only three times as high, the height being stated to be
1810 feet. Just below Rochebrune, the road, keeping by the coast to
Monte Carlo, diverges from the Corniche road, which slowly ascends and
surmounts the Tête de Chien.
The railway is a more rapid means of conveyance, but its hours do not
always fit in with the visitor’s time.
The famous gambling tables at Monte Carlo, established in 1856, are,
I believe, the only thing of the kind now left in Central Europe. The
French Government, it is thought, would fain acquire the principality,
so as to put down this pernicious institution; but I presume it
would be too costly, at least in present circumstances, to arrange.
To attract visitors to the place, the grounds have been laid out in
beautiful terraces flanked by elegant white balustrades, the borders
being filled with palm and other exotic trees and shrubbery. The main
attraction, however, is contained in the Casino, which is a long
handsome building, in which are a spacious concert room, a reading room
with newspapers, and the gambling rooms. A first–class instrumental
band, numbering between seventy and eighty performers, attached to
the establishment, plays gratuitously to the visitors every afternoon
and evening, and on Thursdays gives a selection from classic music.
This daily concert, to which dramatic and other entertainments are
sometimes added, forms an excellent excuse to many for going to Monte
Carlo; and I have seen persons whom I would not have suspected of
passionate fondness for music, visiting it day after day—the real
moving cause being, no doubt, the hazard table. To see the mode of
operation, I once entered the room where the gambling is carried on.
For this purpose, application must be made, in a room off the hall,
for a ticket of admission, which specifies the length of time, say a