Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
By the end of February we began to prepare for leaving Mentone to
travel in Italy. During December we had five days, during January two
days, and during February three days with more or less rain—eleven days
altogether out of ninety. Besides these days, which were also cold,
we had as many more days which were cold or stormy without being wet.
All the other days, even with the north or east winds blowing, were
fine and sunny. There were very few days in which an invalid could
not venture out. In fact, more than three–fourths of the weather was
fine and sunny, and often as hot as a hot day in July at home. On 27th
February, however, we had an eclipse of the moon, which was total. It
must, I think, have had a serious effect upon the temperature, for
immediately afterwards it became extremely cold; so much so that there
was ice for the first time on the river, and it was needful at last to
don our winter attire. We had planned to leave upon the 2d March, but
the day was such as to necessitate postponing our departure till the
morrow. We proceeded by carriage to San Remo.
ITALY.
X.
_SAN REMO AND GENOA._
WE were now proceeding into a country with which many old associations
were united, running back to schoolboy days,—a land over whose sunny
skies and vine–clad fields so many raptures have been uttered; a
land bearing evidence in its deeply–interesting ruins of the power
of a great empire long since passed away; a land of the old classic
literature, and of so much that was grand in ancient art. The pleasure
of visiting it, long looked for, had come at last, and with high
anticipation (a feeling, I suppose, common to most people) we entered
Italy.
Our great difficulty on leaving Mentone was the weather. Friends who
had just been travelling spoke of having had in Italy great severity
of cold and much rain. One of these friends advised against going so
soon, but another thought we might now without any hesitation set
off. Perhaps impatient to leave after having formed our plans, we
resolved to adventure, upon the theory of the Scotch saying, generally
applied to the converse of the case, that the cold would be, as the
spring advanced, ‘a fault aye mending.’ As it turned out, we would
have been better to have waited eight or ten days longer after the 3d
of March, the date of our departure; and, judging from our experience
on this occasion, I should say that about the middle of March is the
earliest time to commence a tour in Italy, after spending a winter in
the sheltered regions of the Riviera. It is not only cold previously,
but, except in favoured spots, the prospect is bleak and wintry. The
vines which in the summer grow so luxuriantly and are so extensively
cultivated, are leafless, the trees are bare, and the fields black.
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