Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
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The road onward from Ventimiglia is dotted on each side by Italian
houses, and offers a pleasant drive. After proceeding four miles, we
arrived at Bordighera, or, as it is sometimes spelled, Bordighiera.
The promontory on which this small town lies, stretches far out into
the sea. The town itself has been built on its west slope, and from
Mentone always looks clothed in sunshine. Probably its half insular
position may give a certain amount of softness to the air. It is
now becoming a place of resort for invalids. The stranger population
apparently is about from 150 to 200, more than one–half of whom
are English. It is thought more bracing than Mentone, and may suit
some constitutions; but it seems to want the shelter which most
invalids require, and which is obtained elsewhere. It is, however, a
bright–looking place, with several hotels. The Hotel de Bordighera,
newly opened, is very pleasantly situated, with large garden in front.
The other hotels are ‘D’Angleterre,’ ‘Beau Rivage,’ ‘Bellevue,’ and
‘Pension Anglaise.’ There are also about twenty villas, besides other
houses, in which quarters may be obtained.
The people of Bordighera obtained from the Pope the privilege of
supplying Rome with palms at Easter, in the manner afterwards mentioned
(p. 298). The palm tree here, therefore, is a subject of special
cultivation. We found the palm garden closed, presumably in preparation
for Easter. Leaving the carriage, we ascended to the church or
cathedral in the old town,—always a prominent object from Mentone,—and
from this point, whence an extensive view is obtained, we took our last
look, for that time, of the place where we had spent the previous three
months so happily. Returning reluctantly to the carriage, we drove
on, and soon passed round to the other side of the promontory, which
thereupon shut out of view all the places whence we had come, and after
proceeding seven or eight miles, reached San Remo.
SAN REMO.
San Remo is a place much recommended by physicians, often in
preference to Mentone. Its air is said to possess all the invigorating
qualities of that of Nice, with the warmth of that of Mentone; to be
warm, exhilarating and soothing, and conducive to sleep. The mean
winter temperature is stated by some accounts to be from 54° to 59°
Fahrenheit; spring, 63° to 68°; summer, 72° to 85°; and autumn, 66° to
72°.[26] The icy Tramontane wind is said to be only slightly felt, and
that in the west and more exposed end of the town, while the mistral
is only known as a high wind. It is also asserted that the natives are
healthy and long–lived. With all these recommendations as a health
resort, San Remo cannot be considered to possess the attractions of
Mentone, and it was with a feeling of disappointment we first entered
the place. Perhaps our disappointment was increased by the difficulty
of obtaining accommodation, and by the contrast in what we did obtain
with what we had enjoyed at Mentone.