Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
The railway station occupies a prominent position in the town, and
passes by or cuts off the harbour, which lies outside of it. From the
battlements or breakwater of this most untidily–kept harbour, a good
view is had of the town and the mountains behind it. I made the ascent
of the town through long narrow dirty winding vias, like Edinburgh
High Street closes, only they are narrower, steeper, and tortuous, and
far more dirty and unsavoury. Sometimes the road, paved with stone
throughout, lies under dismal arched vaults, while the houses on each
side are irregular and dilapidated—foul, dark, and dreary dens, rather
than habitations for human beings. It was some relief to reach the
platform on the summit, on which the large church called the sanctuary
stands. From this point an excellent view is had all around. I
descended by another of those curious vias, in which the houses support
each other by arched flying buttresses, intended as a security against
the effects of earthquakes, of which, however, we obtained no specimen
shock during either of our visits to San Remo.
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The mountains and hill–slopes surrounding San Remo are densely covered
with olive trees, and to some extent with lemons, and afford shelter
and walks to the visitors, but of a character differing entirely from
those at Mentone. On the hillsides many wild flowers grow in rich
profusion—hyacinths, narcissi, anemones, tulips, mignonette, gladioli,
and others. Those who have been out exploring the country in the
spring, return generally laden with bouquets, or rather bundles, of
bright–coloured flowers.
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Various excursions which may be taken to places among the mountains
by assistance of donkeys, are described in a little volume called
_San Remo as a Winter Residence_, by an Invalid, 1869 (Wm. Hunt and
Co., London), to which, for further information regarding the town
and locality, I would refer. I believe a lady is bringing out another
guide–book with information up to date. In 1869, it would appear from
the ‘Invalid’s’ little book that there were then only five hotels and
twenty–three villas. Since the extension of the railway to San Remo,
the number of both has largely increased. Now there are nine hotels and
pensions in the east division of San Remo, and eleven in the west, some
of which are said to be expensive. Of the West End hotels, one or two
are situated well up on a hill–slope, the fatigue of greater ascent and
the additional exposure being no doubt considered to be balanced by
the expanded prospect. There are now also fully eighty villas east and
west.
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