Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
About three miles from San Remo, looking up a valley, one of those
curious old towns which are perched on the top of a hill becomes
visible. I had thought it to be Ceriana, which lies in that direction,
a visit to which is one of the excursions from San Remo; but it
proved, according to Bædeker, to be a similar town called Bussana. The
picturesque town of Porto Maurizio is invisible from the railway, which
passes under it; while a little farther on, Oneglia and its harbour are
just seen in approaching, and the railway stops at the landward end of
it. However, at next station, Diana Marina, the railway traveller is
rewarded by a most charming landscape. A chain of mountains hems in a
valley, in the centre of which a conical hill rises abruptly, and on
its top Diano Castello stands, another of those curious and picturesque
towns which are so common in the Riviera and in Italy. The scene is
one in which an artist’s pencil might luxuriate. The _tout ensemble_
would make, as it no doubt has often made, a striking picture. At
Alassio, nine miles farther on, we rested on our journey in the
following year, and I shall return to it, therefore, further on. But
leaving Alassio and passing under its west boundary the promontory of
Santa Croce, looking seawards there was seen, perhaps about two miles
out, the small rocky desolate–looking island of Gallenaria, on which
a former proprietor had built a house for residence, but where, we
were told, and could readily believe, his more sociable wife refused
to live. Farther on upon the left, inland, but near the railway, the
town of Albenga appears prominently. This is an old Roman town, and is
an episcopal residence. Its many and thickly–planted towers give to it
quite the aspect of a cathedral city. Touching shortly afterwards at
Finalmarina and Noli, in about three and a half hours from the time of
leaving San Remo, the large and imposing town of Savona, beautifully
situated, came into view a massive–looking fort towering over and
protecting the harbour below. Here many who travel by carriage leave
the road and proceed to Genoa by rail, and those for Genoa going
westward take carriage from Savona, the reason being, that the road and
rail between Savona and Genoa run parallel to each other, while the
route lacks the attractions of the remainder of the Corniche drive.
From Savona, also, there is a direct line of railway to Turin. The
train moves on, and eleven miles beyond Savona, reaches Cogoletto,
which is said to have been the birthplace of Columbus, and is therefore
a town of interest. The town, like so many others, lies on the beach,
and the railway station only affords a view of backs of houses. Shortly
after, the train stops at Pegli, a place about six miles from Genoa, a
place of winter residence, and famous for its gardens, which attract
excursions by visitors at Genoa, besides inducing others to take up
their abode for more or less time at the hotels of the place. A little