Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
most part, mural; on the other, which opens by arches to the Campo,
the principal monuments are placed one under each arch. The general
character of the mural monuments is stately repose, some exceptionally
being in action. But under the arches, between the supporting columns,
the figures are often in startling resemblance to life. For example,
one group is of a lady sitting up in bed, with an earnest fascinating
or fascinated look, grasping the right hand of another in a long
garment, loose from the neck to the feet, whose left arm and forefinger
of the hand are pointing upward. In another, a charming female figure
appears soaring with an angel upward resting on clouds, the group being
pervaded, like so many more, by a marvellous grace and freedom of
execution. Another is a mother with a babe in each arm. But it would be
endless to describe them, the more especially as to do so effectively
one would require to make each monument a special study—not to be
recommended, because the vaults are cold, and it is not safe to linger
in them. Only the west of the three sides of the quadrangle, and part
of the south side, were then so occupied.
The fourth side of the square lies upon the slope of a hill, and
advantage has been taken of this natural feature of the ground for
the formation of terraces, in the centre of which, at the top of a
magnificent flight of marble steps, a large circular church of white
marble has been built, upon entering which we look upon a majestic row
of black marble pillars, standing in a stately circle round vacancy as
yet. When we saw it last, the church was not completed, and evidently
would not be for a long time to come, for no expense seems to be spared
to render it in every respect the grand complement of its beautiful
surroundings. Upon the arcaded terraces, stretching away right and left
from the church, we found some of the choicest groups of sculpture in
the whole place. They are large and costly, and harmoniously graceful
embellishments of the symmetrical structure. Behind these arcades,
vaults have been built akin to those on the other three sides; while
beyond, to the north, open ground on the hill–slope has been laid out
for interments,—as yet sparsely dotted by monuments.
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