Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
There are two routes from Pisa to Rome—one by Leghorn and the coast,
which would have obliged us either to stop the night at the uninviting
town of Civita Vecchia, or to have arrived at Rome late in the evening.
We chose the other route by Sienna. To go by Sienna, the traveller
proceeds eastward about half–way along the railway to Florence, and
changes carriages at Empoli. From Empoli the railway strikes off
southward to Sienna and Rome. Sienna stands high, being 1330 feet above
the level of the sea, and is considered a place of summer residence for
its coolness.
[Illustration: A CITY SET UPON A HILL, ON ROAD TO LUCCA.]
I was therefore somewhat apprehensive, considering the cold weather we
had endured, lest it might be too cold. Although, however, it stands
high above the level of the sea, it does not seem to be more than 200
feet above the level of the surrounding country, or of the railway,
and we did not find it very cold. But a change had taken place in the
weather, and it was again a fine cloudless day. Having decided to go by
Sienna, we could not resist making another excursion to the cathedral
before starting by the mid–day train, and were all but tempted to
ascend the Campanile. But to an invalid it looked chilly outside, and
the height deterring; and I being the only one who might have gone, the
custodier could not take me alone, the rule, to guard against accidents
or suicide, being that not less than three must make the ascent at a
time. The cathedral looked much finer in the sunshine, and we could
have lingered long examining it in detail, and would gladly have had
there the wearisome time, well–nigh an hour, we were, according to
Italian custom, required to spend in the _salle–d’attente_ of the
railway. The journey from Pisa to Sienna, about seventy miles, is
through a mountainous country, with some places of interest by the way,
though our prospect was much contracted by reason of a passenger in the
carriage who would draw down all the blinds on his side and read a book
the whole way, till his wife, out of shame, seeing our disappointment,
persuaded him to allow one of the three blinds on his side to be
raised, there being no sun peering in even to justify an excuse, which,
indeed, never was made. In four hours and twenty minutes we arrived at
our destination.
SIENNA.
Sienna, resting on the top and brow of a hill, looks picturesque from
below. The railway station lies in a hollow, and the road up to town
is steep. We drove to the Grand Hotel, which, though not mentioned
in Bædeker, unless its name has been changed, is in by far the best
situation of any, its windows looking down upon the public park and
across to the fort or citadel; while, to add to its attractions, it is
kept by a worthy English landlady, and is consequently possessed of
all English comforts. We had an hour to see the town before dinner, at
which we enjoyed its famous Chiante wine presented in flasks.
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