Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
WE had about a month previously taken rooms in Madame Tellenbach’s
Pension for the 15th of March, but at her suggestion, as the weather
had been cold and wet, had given them up. We obtained quarters in the
Hotel de Londres, on the opposite side of the Piazza di Spagna. This is
a large open space, in what is considered to be the strangers’ quarter,
and most of the principal hotels are in it, or in its neighbourhood. It
is very necessary to be cautious where one sleeps in Rome, and we heard
that cases of fever had happened even in some of what are considered
the best hotels. It is said that it is not desirable to have rooms
immediately under the Pincian Hill; while, oddly enough also, it is
believed that the most healthy localities are those in which the houses
and their inhabitants are most crowded, as in the Ghetto. I cannot
vouch for either of these theories. After being two nights in the Hotel
de Londres, we procured rooms in Madame Tellenbach’s. There are some
advantages attaching to a house of this description in a place like
Rome; principally because the people mingle more sociably together than
in an hotel, arising, I suppose, from the lady of the house sitting
at table and introducing her guests to each other. It is also less
expensive than an hotel. It cost me from 4 to 5 francs per day for each
of my party more at the hotel than at the pension, the difference
necessarily being more or less according to circumstances, and
especially according to the rooms taken in the one and in the other.
But it must be admitted that there is a certain amount of additional
comfort, tidiness, and appearance, which are usually obtained at an
hotel, which a little judicious expenditure in a pension might secure.
And for a short visit the hotel is, in any view, preferable.
Those who intend to spend the winter in Rome can, if they so desire,
procure lodgings; and sometimes they can be obtained at a moderate
rate. A friend had (winter 1878–79) for six months a suite of rooms
(two public and three bed rooms) neatly furnished, in a good street
near the Piazza di Spagna, for 320 francs per month, service included.
The rooms, however, were on the fourth _piano_ or storey, and on a
lower floor would have been greatly more. But in Rome, as in Italian
towns generally, it is an advantage to be high up; and, indeed, one
may toil up a long stair, as we have done, and find an excellent
private dwelling on the top floor; for many of the houses in Rome
resemble the ‘tenements’ or ‘lands’ so common in Scotland, divided into
‘flats,’—that is, a separate dwelling on each floor, and communicating
with the street by a common stair.
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