Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
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Our first day in Rome was a Sunday. We readily found the Presbyterian
or Scotch church just outside the Porto del Popolo. It is a large,
airy, nice place of worship. The climate of Rome, however, does not
suit every one, and may produce weakness or develop what is latent. We
met at Mentone, in the following winter, an esteemed Scotch clergyman,
who ascribed debility to having in a previous year had three months’
duty in Rome. He had never, he said, been in good health since.
* * * * *
Next morning we drove to St. Peter’s, which is generally the first
object of attraction to the visitor. The way to it leads through narrow
insignificant streets till the Ponte St. Angelo be reached. This bridge
across the Tiber is decorated on each side parapet with five white
marble statues, looking very black with exposure to the weather. The
Tiber rolls below, yellow, muddy, and unalluring, and is in breadth
between 300 and 400 feet, or about one–third the width of the Thames at
Blackfriars Bridge.
The Castle of St. Angelo is one of those marked features of old Rome
which engravings enable us at once to recognise. It was built by
Hadrian as a mausoleum for himself and succeeding emperors, and the
square base of this immense monument covered an acre and a half of
ground. The round tower, which rises from the base, is now 188 feet
in diameter; but it is stripped of its outer case of stone and white
marble, and it no longer possesses what it is believed to have had, a
dome 300 feet high, together with encircling statues. When built, it
was no doubt a monument of the greatest magnificence; but its massive
strength caused it to be for centuries occupied as a fort, and the
successive sieges to which it has been subjected have brought about the
destruction of all its adornment. Its history is to a large extent,
since it was built, the history of the city of Rome, and may be seen
set forth in Mr. Storey’s _Castle of St. Angelo_.
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Passing the castle on the right, the Tiber being on the left after
crossing the bridge, the way lies along one of several narrow streets
terminating in the great Piazza San Pietro, so that till the Piazza be
reached St. Peter’s is obscured. It was not without emotion we arrived
in view of this noble building, sending out from it on each side, like
huge arms, imposing colonnades, consisting of no less than 284 columns
each 64 feet high, which enclose so far the Piazza. The Egyptian
obelisk brought to Rome by Caligula has been placed in the centre
of the Piazza, attaining, with its pedestal, a height of 127 feet 6
inches, and yet dwarfed in presence of the great temple, the dome of
which, however, is not well seen from the Piazza, or, indeed, from any
place near. The obelisk is flanked on each side by a large and handsome
fountain always playing, and in windy weather sending a shower of spray
to a considerable distance leeward.