Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
head on the wall paper of the room in which he wrote his _Wealth of
Nations_; but Peter’s head must have been formed of stuff harder and
rougher even than that of his statue, to have hollowed out a hole in
a stone wall. A more wonderful stone, however, is shown in a little
chapel outside the gates, fixed on the floor, where we were gravely
informed, for the charge of, I think, 5 soldi (twopence halfpenny),
that the deep impression of two feet—pretty large ones too—were the
marks of Peter’s feet. This marvellous petrifaction is protected by
an iron grating.[29] To crown all, the dome of St. Peter’s is held to
cover the site of the burial–place of the apostle, and beneath lies
his tomb. Over the supposed tomb and over the high altar attached, at
which only a pope or a cardinal delegate can officiate on important
occasions, a canopy (_baldacchino_) rises ninety–five feet high, to
which, architecturally, exception has been taken. More exception might
be taken to the reality of the place of sepulture. It cannot even be
proved that Peter was put to death at Rome, and is it likely that
his persecutors would allow him to be buried in the spot alleged, or
that any succeeding emperor, supposing he was desirous of removing
the martyr to a place with which he, the apostle of the Jews, had
no peculiar connection, would have been able to have recovered and
identified the body?
* * * * *
The grand central aisle of the cathedral is flanked by colossal
columns, the size of which can hardly be appreciated without actual
measurement or veritable comparison with other known heights. On each
side the aisles, of proportionate size, contain large chapels, one
of which is used for the ordinary services of the Church, which are
chanted by the pope’s choir. Gigantic statues and monuments of popes
adorn the aisles and transept. The altars, as usual, are enriched
by paintings, which at our first visit, being in Lent, were, as in
all the churches at that season, veiled. The altars themselves are
rich, but not obtrusively so—all in quiet keeping with the august
building. In the transept, wooden confessional boxes are set, each
different confessing nation, England included, having one. Looking up
the gigantic dome, we find the walls covered with mosaics. The four
Evangelists occupy a first course, and high above them other figures.