Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
The galleries containing the paintings are situated in other rooms, and
require separate days as well as separate orders for their examination.
The entrance is reached by the Scala Regia in the Colonnade, on the
right side approaching St. Peter’s.
We devoted two separate afternoons to each.
The sculptures are far more numerous than the paintings, and even after
two inspections, we could only consider we had seen them in a very
general way. To do them justice, one would almost require to bestow
upon each different group of halls a distinct visit. The number of
statues, busts, urns, and other sculptured objects exhibited, is very
great. Most, if not all of them, have been recovered from the ruins of
ancient Rome while under the government of the popes. The visitor is
brought face to face with the original of the Apollo Belvedere, the
Laocoon, and many other statues and groups familiar to all by copies or
by engravings. But it is necessary to watch carefully, lest omission be
made of some of the rooms; for we discovered, on going a second time,
rooms we had previously overlooked, and which contained some of the
finest statuary. Of many of the halls and of the individual statues,
photographs can be purchased in the shops, which, to those who have not
seen them, convey some idea of the galleries and their contents, and
are exceedingly useful to those who have, in recalling them. Without
this help, the multiplicity of objects tends to obscure and confuse the
recollection. There is one annoying feature about the statue galleries
of the Vatican, that in place of the names of the objects, there is
painted upon them the name of the pope by whom they were placed where
they stand. One gets quite irritated by the vanity of Pius VI. and Pius
VII., leading them in so objectionable a manner to obtrude their names
upon the public.
The examination of the picture galleries is much more easily
accomplished. The good paintings are in reality confined to two or
three rooms, and one or two more, in which are fine frescoes by
Raphael and others. The great attractions of this gallery are—’The
Transfiguration,’ by Raphael; ‘The Madonna di Foligno,’ a fine
work of the same great master; and ‘The Communion of St. Jerome,’
by Domenichino. The upper portion of ‘The Transfiguration’ is so
exquisitely beautiful as to suggest whether it would not have been
better severed from the lower half, representing the writhing boy in
the midst of the perplexed disciples, which, though it may have been
designed by Raphael, was painted by his pupils. Indeed, the insertion
of the scene may be said to be an anachronism, because the cure was
effected on ‘the next day,’ while its introduction detracts from the
feeling of sublime elevation above the world and the things of the
world which the upper portion of the picture breathes.