Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
and cost, taxing the resources and appealing to the honour of emperors
for its accomplishment. The mere erection upon its present position of
that now standing in the Piazza of St. Peter’s (the second in size,
and weighing 331 tons), in the time of Sextus V., cost £9000. It was
on this memorable occasion, when under pain of death, certain to be
inflicted, all were commanded to be silent, and the ropes were about to
give way, the Italian sailor from Bordighera, at the peril of his life,
called out, ‘Wet the ropes!’ and saved the obelisk from destruction.
He was himself pardoned, and obtained for Bordighera as reward the
privilege of supplying Rome with palm leaves at Easter.
* * * * *
Outside the walls of Rome, particularly on entering or leaving by
railway, long lines of lofty arches are seen, more or less ruinous
(having suffered dilapidation at the hand of enemies), which supported
aqueducts by which ancient Rome was supplied with water. At one time
there were no less than twenty–four of these aqueducts, entering Rome
from various distances. The water was brought along on the gravitation
principle, the inclination being believed to have been 1 foot in 400;
for although it seems the Romans were acquainted with the scientific
fact of which we now avail ourselves, that water in a closed pipe
will find its own level, they did not to any extent act upon their
knowledge of it. The water so brought in was distributed to an immense
number of small reservoirs, or wells or fountains, for the use of the
inhabitants, the surplus water being scrupulously employed to flush
and scour the sewers. But it was also used to supply the baths of
Rome. The bath was regarded by the old Romans as a necessary of life;
and many luxurious men, who had not the newspaper or the last new
book to wile away the time, bathed as often as seven or eight times a
day—great and small, men and women, all mingling promiscuously in the
water. To provide for this voluptuous habit, the baths were numerous,
and constructed on an enormous scale. There were no less than sixteen
establishments throughout Rome, intended not merely for the purposes of
ablution, but to supply other means of recreation, and public places
where the citizens might meet each other. The Thermæ of Agrippa, of
Caracalla, of Constantine, of Diocletian, and of Titus, still exist in
ruins, some of them exemplifying their magnitude. Those of Diocletian,
close by the railway station, were the most extensive, measuring more
than a mile in circumference. Our time permitted of a visit to only one
of these Thermæ, the Thermæ of Caracalla, which, enormous in extent
as they were, were only half as large as those of Diocletian. They
lie about three–quarters of a mile from the Arch of Constantine, and
usually, in a drive to the Catacombs of St. Calixtus, are taken going
or returning. The extent of the rooms is something marvellous. The