Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
If nobody remains in charge of this costly church during summer, I do
not know how it is guarded from depredation. It seems a great risk to
build it in such a situation. Perhaps the laws against sacrilege may be
so severe as to deter.[34]
There are many other churches in Rome which should be visited, but
cannot be described in a sketch like the present. Indeed, the fullest
description of such places can only enable a stranger to realize them
very imperfectly.
* * * * *
The palaces in Rome, or what are termed such, are as great an
attraction as the churches, and to many much more so. There are about
seventy of one kind or another, generally huge old buildings, some
of which are open to the public on certain days of the week, or on
other stated days,—a fee of 1 franc per party being given to the
doorkeeper at leaving, which is always the time in Italy when fees
are paid, except when admission is by ticket, paid for at entrance.
Most of these palaces are visited for the collections of paintings
and sculptures which they contain, some of which are very valuable.
Generally the second storey is devoted to these collections, the first
being sometimes occupied as shops or as servants’ apartments, and the
upper floors by the family. Leaving umbrellas and sticks at the door,
visitors pass from one room to another unattended, although there are
men usually going quietly about to keep watch. There are lists in each
room, printed on cardboard, of the pictures in it,—one side being
generally in Italian, and the other in French. It would be perfectly
endless to describe these various collections. Those most worthy of
notice are specified in Hare’s _Walks in Rome_, which is a useful guide
to them. But it would really be conferring a great boon upon visitors
to Rome if some one were to publish a catalogue of all the collections
in the manner of the _Academy Notes_, illustrating the noteworthy. Only
by such means is it possible to retain in memory, or recall distinctly
and without confusion, some recollection of their varied contents, and
where given pictures are to be found.[35] Photographs of many can no
doubt be procured, and are useful, and, so far as they go, better than
the little rough sketches of the _Academy Notes_; but the collection
of such photographs is limited (they are for the most part taken from
engravings), and they can only be picked up by degrees. There is,
however, a very valuable collection of engravings, published under
direction of the Italian Government, of the choicest of the pictures
and sculptures; and a few pounds may be well spent in purchases, which
can be safely carried home rolled in tin cases which are supplied
for the purpose. The shop in which they are sold is close to the
Fountain of Treves, No. 6 Via Stamperia. The catalogue, extending to
33 pages, is divided into three parts,—_Pittura_, _Scultura_, and
_Architettura_,—and in the first part comprises the works of 43
painters.