Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
IT proved a very wet morning in Rome on the day we had settled to go
to Naples (for it can rain in Rome remarkably well); but we had taken
our rooms at a hotel in Naples, and were packed and ready to go, and
accordingly left, arriving at the station at half–past eight for the
train leaving at 9.20, and were not a bit too soon. The traveller has
to hang on for his turn to get his luggage weighed and to purchase his
railway tickets; and after these operations were accomplished, and
admission was at last accorded to the _salle–d’attente_ (for none,
according to the evil custom which keeps ladies hanging about on their
feet, can enter previously), we had but a few minutes to wait in that
apartment until the doors were opened and announcement made that
passengers might now hurry to the train.
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For a considerable part of the way the rain fell and heavy clouds hung
upon the mountains, so that little could be seen of the scenery in
the early part of the journey, which is the most interesting, as the
line commands in many parts historical ground. We passed the Alban and
Volscian Mountains; the town of Capua, where are interesting Roman
remains; Caserta, where there is an immense royal palace; and many
curious old towns resting upon the hills which the railway skirted. It
would have been well worth while to have stayed at Capua and Caserta
to have seen them, but it is difficult to arrange for doing so without
spending a night by the way, or continuing the journey by a night
train, because trains do not suit. This being the 26th of March,
vegetation was in a very backward state, the trees just beginning
to show symptoms of being about to throw out their buds, so that
everything looked somewhat dreary. At last we arrived in Naples, after
a seven hours’ ride, just in time to settle down before dinner.
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