Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
But the greatest sources of attraction in Florence are the Uffizi and
Pitti Galleries. These are open free to the public on Sundays and
Thursdays—on other days on payment of a franc. The Uffizi Gallery
occupies the upper floor of the three sides of a long narrow street or
court or _cul de sac_, I believe 450 feet long—the fourth being open
to the Piazza della Signoria. The building has a handsome elevation,
scarcely visible in the narrow street, and is adorned by nearly thirty
marble statues of celebrated Tuscans, such as Dante, Petrarch, Michael
Angelo, Lorenzo il Magnifico, evidencing the wealth of Florence in
illustrious men. The gallery itself is reached by a long staircase,
and through vestibules embellished by busts and statues. On entering
we find ourselves in a long corridor, which is carried round the
whole length of the three sides of the building; in fact, making
three long galleries, not particularly high, though high enough for
the purpose, and lighted from the top and by windows looking into the
court. In these corridors, besides a good many pictures interspersed
upon the walls, the greater part of the sculpture of the collection
is assembled—embracing some choice specimens of ancient art, but in
number very small compared with the vast treasures of the Vatican.
Doors open all round into suites of rooms containing an immense
assemblage of paintings, principally Italian, and among them many of
the choicest works of the great masters. Besides the many chambers
devoted to works of art of various nations, among which Britain seems
to be nowhere and Italy to predominate, there are some small rooms
containing collections of gems, medals, and bronzes. Two of the larger
galleries exhibit several hundred portraits of artists, one of the
most pleasingly beautiful among them being a sweet likeness by Mme. Le
Brun of herself, a very favourite subject of copy, and with herself a
not uncommon subject of her brush, as may be noticed in the Louvre.
A very large room is likewise set apart mainly for the exhibition of
seventeen most painfully–expressive statues of the famous Niobe group.
But of all the rooms in this great gathering of art, the Tribune is the
one which displays the choicest specimens. It is a comparatively small
room, but is said to have cost £20,000 in its construction. Here are
chef–d’œuvres of Raphael, Titian, Guido Reni, Correggio, and various
others; while the chamber also contains the famous Venus de Medici, the
Wrestlers, the Dancing Faun, the Whetter—all masterpieces of ancient
sculpture.