Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
Piazzetta at the Doge’s Palace, eastward, I suppose, about 1000 yards,
while a continuation of the walk westward from the Piazzetta has been
made in the Royal Gardens fronting the Royal Palace. This situation is
decidedly the best in Venice. It faces the south, and the views from
it are open and surpass others. The hotel is within a stone–throw of
the Doge’s Palace, and people can at once get out from it to the open
fresh air, walk freely about, and visit many of the objects of greatest
interest without stepping into a gondola, or picking their way along
the numerous narrow and tortuous streets or lanes intersecting Venice,
which are extremely perplexing to a stranger. Most of the other hotels
are situated upon the canals,—sometimes in sunless interior parts,—with
communications behind by these narrow lanes with the landward parts of
the town; and they want the advantage of the quay in front, which with
the shipping always affords a lively, interesting promenade.
* * * * *
Rain fell during the evening, but next morning we sallied out to see a
little of this wonderful place. It is a curious sensation to see for
the first time a town like Venice, whose leading features by means of
pictures have been familiar to us from childhood; but no pictures ever
come up to the reality. We stood for a little upon the pretty bridge
which crosses a narrow canal, and looked up to the renowned Bridge
of Sighs, which, at a considerable elevation over this small canal,
connects the east side of the Doge’s Palace with the prison. The façade
of the palace upon this side exhibits a combination of elegance with an
appearance of massive strength, to which the lower tiers of masonry,
formed of rows of tooth–shaped or square diamond–pointed bosses
(they perhaps have a technical name), similar to the enrichments on
Crichton Castle (Midlothian), very much contribute. Then we passed the
well–known south front of the Doge’s Palace to the Piazzetta separating
the Doge’s from the Royal Palace—a wide, open space, wherein stand the
two red granite pillars one sees in every representation of this part
of Venice; the one surmounted by the winged lion, and the other by the
former patron of the Republic, San Teodoro, who was turned out by the
mundane authorities and succeeded in office by San Marco, such patrons
having no will of their own in the bestowal or withdrawal of their
patronage. Then walking up by the west side of the Palace, we entered
the large open square called the Piazza di San Marco, nearly 600 feet
long, by, at the east end, 270 feet wide, narrowing to 180 feet at the
west end, and presenting on each side a handsome façade in the Italian
style, the lower floor being occupied with shops and cafés under
arcades. The Church of St. Mark forms the east side of this Piazza.
Near to it, on the south–east of the Piazza, its lofty campanile rises;
while opposite the famous clock tower and clock form a portion of the
north side.