Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
So numerous are the palaces, that I see eighty–nine are mentioned in
a small but useful guide–book, called _A Week in Venice_,[41] the
churches being about as many in number. The grand palace of all,
however, is the Doge’s. This is a magnificent building both inside and
out. The admission is by ticket, costing a franc each for the palace
itself, with extra tickets for the Bridge of Sighs and the Museum, a
small collection. The palace is a square or oblong building, with a
large court–yard in the centre, and both externally and on the walls
of the court is highly decorated; but there is a heaviness in the
upper part of the west and south exterior façades, and a dumpiness
about the windows with which these parts are pierced, which could
never reconcile me to them. Even the lower part in its arcading wants
relief. Thirty–four Gothic arches in a row, and all monotonously alike
in size and figure, however beautiful individually, without a break
loses in effect. The entrance from the Piazzetta is by a beautiful
Gothic doorway closely adjoining St. Mark’s, richly sculptured. After
examining and passing through it, we find ourselves at the foot of the
Giant’s Staircase; but the large central square court round which the
palace extends arrests the eye, and we enter it to admire the interior
façades, particularly those on the east and north. The north side is
short and broken, and more diversified than the others, not merely by
statues and a peculiar rich ornamentation, but by the domes of St.
Mark, which tower over it and claim to be a portion of the structure.
But after lingering about this handsome court, and taking a look at
the carved bronze wells which are placed in it, and from which water
is obtained, ascent is made by the Giant’s Staircase to the first
floor, where admission is gained to the portions of the building shown
to the public. The arrangement of the rooms is somewhat perplexing to
the visitor, requiring a plan which is not anywhere given to guide him
through. But we find our way through some immense halls, all decorated
by huge pictures principally representing scenes in the history of
Venice—real ‘gallery pictures’ in point of extent of canvas, but highly
suitable to the noble proportions of the rooms. One picture, not by any
means a pleasing one, is the largest in the world, and occupies the
whole breadth of an immense room—’Paradise,’ by Tintoretto, who seemed
fond of enormous canvases; his chef–d’œuvre, the Crucifixion, in the
Scola di S. Rocco, being also huge. The ceilings of the rooms in the
palace, some of them lofty, are also, according to Italian practice,
embellished with paintings and massive gilding; but labour and expense
seem greatly thrown away, it is such a strain to look up to them. In
one large room, just below the ceiling, in a running row, portraits
are seen of all the Doges, 120 in number, commencing in the year 697
and ending 1797, a period of exactly 1100 years. One of them, however,