Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
The sail in the steamboat to Como takes about two hours, and is a very
charming excursion. The lake winds about among the mountains, and the
boat, crossing from side to side, touches every now and then at one of
those picturesque Italian villages which adorn the lake and form such
admirable subjects for the painter’s brush. At the south end, where
the town of Como lies, the mountains dwindle down to insignificant
hills, and the town is built for the most part on a large level plain,
which probably has been gained from the lake by deposit. The town is
one of some size, its principal ornament being the cathedral, a large
and imposing church with a dome built of white marble, and finely
ornamented within by sculpture. This and the adjoining Broletto, or
Town Hall, built in alternate courses of black and white marble, with
an open arcade below, and an old tower by its side, are, with the
cathedral, the attractions of the ancient city of Como.
The sail in the other direction, towards the snowy mountains, is much
grander, and also takes about two hours, stopping at Colico. The sail
upon Lake Lecco we did not take.
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It was too hot to walk to any distance, but one forenoon two of us
ventured exploringly as far as St. Giovanni, a small fishing village
with two churches, about a mile or more to the south of Bellaggio. Here
quantities of the fish caught in the lake by means of nets were hanging
up to dry and be baked in the sun. On our way we passed a monument
in course of erection to some Principe, whose name I did not gather,
curiously composed of a combination of red brick, granite, and marble;
and not far off the ruins of a church, whose tall square campanile,
remaining standing, was an object in the landscape.
In one of our walks, we found lying on the road one after another three
small snakes, which had been killed and left there. They were probably
about 15 inches in length and ⅝ths of an inch thick.
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