Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
There are a number of very nice walks at Hyères. About a mile out
of town, a piece of ground has been recently laid out as a Jardin
d’Acclimation; but as yet it is mainly occupied by an immense number
of ducks of all kinds. The great drawback to Hyères is, that it is not
sufficiently sheltered from the mistral, which blows during spring
from the west and unprotected side. It is also far from the sea–shore,
and is therefore deprived of the life and interest always found at
the sea–side. Its climate, though warm, is, I believe, changeable.
On the 1st November it was as hot there as it is any day in July in
London; but it may suit some invalids who require to be at a distance
from the sea. We did not like it, but were perhaps spoiled for fully
appreciating it by having been previously at other and, as we thought,
more attractive places. This, however, has to be said, that our visit
to Hyères took place before the season had fairly commenced, and to be
in a season place out of season is always dreary. We were very nearly
the only persons in our hotel. There was one family there, whom we met
in very painful circumstances. They had brought with them a daughter
who had been given up in London by her physicians, who said her only
chance of life was going to the south of France. With great difficulty
she was brought so far. She survived about five or six weeks from the
time of leaving home, but died a few days after reaching Hyères. We
attended her funeral, conducted by the English clergyman, and it was
gratifying to see that it created an apparent sympathy among the native
population, who assembled in considerable numbers in the burying–ground.
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Hyères is no doubt interesting to other persons; indeed, we have met
with those who have spoken very highly of it. La Plage, the nearest
point on the coast, is about three miles distant, and the railway has
been extended to it and to the salines beyond. We took the train to it
one day, and found a few villas had been built in the hope of making it
a seaside town; but at the time of our visit, at least, the speculation
did not seem to look hopeful. There is nothing attractive either about
the beach or about the neighbourhood, except a forest of umbrella
pines, affording the only shelter it possesses against the winds, which
must often blow violently at this part, and were blowing so keenly at
the time that we were glad to walk home and not wait three hours for a
train.
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We were a good deal annoyed by mosquitoes while at Hyères,
necessitating recourse to burning pastilles at night, and waging a war
of extermination in the morning.
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