Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
thing, too, is that this noise does not seem to disturb the equanimity
either of the driver’s own horse or of the other passing horses. With
our own high–spirited horses, the mere wag of the whip will make them
frantic, and I believe there would be no holding in English horses in a
Continental town. Whether it be that the foreign horses are not so high
metalled, or get used to the noise, as horses do to passing trains, I
do not know, but to the walkers along the streets it is an intolerable
nuisance; nor is it altogether without its dangers, as on one occasion
a lady of our party all but got her eye struck by a flying lash. The
same sort of cracking goes on in Italy; but I noticed that in Florence
and Rome, and particularly the latter city, the drivers did it very
seldom. Probably to do so was against some police regulation, as from
the large number of vehicles with which the streets of Rome are filled,
the noise would be deafening, and might even be dangerous.
* * * * *
I was at first inclined to think that the Italian coachmen are kinder
to their horses than the French or Swiss. It was long ere I saw an
Italian behaving savagely to his horse; but I have observed it, and
been informed by others of the cruel treatment they have seen practised
by Italians. I have seen men behaving most savagely to their horses
in France and Switzerland. For example, I have frequently seen a
carter, or man in charge of a horse or donkey, when he wished it to
move on, instead of quietly speaking to it, as even an English carter
would, take the butt end of his heavy whip and lay heavily on the
poor animal’s back, or even give it a violent kick. The carters lade
their carts very heavily, and often—I might even say always—beyond the
strength of the horse. I have observed a poor horse struggling with all
his might to pull the improper load up a hill, the carter encouraging
it by the whip all the time. Several times I could not resist speaking
to the men about their conduct. On one occasion, at Cannes, I saw a
horse, after having struggled to the utmost of his strength with a
load twice as heavy as it ought to have been (the bystanders only
looking on and giving it no aid), and remaining willing but helpless
to do more, when the carter took the narrow end of his heavy whip,
and came down twice with his whole force with the heavy–loaded butt
end on his horse’s head. Ere he could repeat the villanous stroke, I
rushed forward, arrested his hand, and told him, in the best French I
could muster, what a brute I thought him to be. But it is not easy to
give vent to one’s indignation in a foreign tongue. The fellow ought
to have been prosecuted, and there does exist in France a Society for
the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals; but policemen as well as others,
I suspect, are as callous to such offences as our own policemen are
to the destruction by boys of our meadow or park trees. Cruelty to