Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
a horse, however, often consists in little aggravating acts which a
prosecution might fail to reach. I have often seen a coachman waiting
at a stand, or at a door, and, having idle hands, mischievously proceed
to touch up his horses for doing nothing—in short, to vent his own
irritation at his idleness upon the poor dumb animals; and then, when
they began to caper because of the whip, the whip was again applied
because of the caper. However, I am afraid this is an evil habit which
is not seldom to be witnessed in our own country. Another method
abroad of torturing the horse is by the use of a bearing rein strapped
up to the high and heavy saddle or collar borne by the cart horses,
which from its weight is also of itself an infliction. But so long as
Liverpool dray horses are so tortured, we cannot reasonably complain
of bearing reins as a foreign peculiarity. A more extraordinary and
hardly credible kind of torture a lady told me she had witnessed was
in the passing of a strap or rope through the skin of the horse,
compelling him to move on to avoid or lessen the pain so produced. I
would fain believe she had been mistaken, but she was one on whose
relation I could rely, and whose capacity for observing could scarcely
be questioned.
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The Italian carriages for hire are very inferior to the French. At
Naples they are of the roughest possible kind—open little phaetons made
of coarse wood, at some remote period having enjoyed a coat of paint,
and exhibiting a barely decent seat for two, and a little folding seat
for a third. The Roman carriages are similarly constructed, but a
shade better. The drivers in Naples and its vicinity are, as regards
person and clothes, the dirtiest–looking ragamuffins. One shrinks to
come in contact with them. In Rome, on the other hand, the drivers are
generally a respectable–looking class, and they wear a black glazed hat
and red cloth waistcoat. The most stylish of coachmen we have seen are
those at Biarritz, where they frequently mount a grand blue broidered
jacket with scarlet facings; but this grandeur has to be paid for.
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