Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
In Mentone the washerwomen appear to suspend operations on Sundays. It
is probable that they strive to get all the linen committed to their
care sent home by the end of the week to the ladies, who require their
things by that time to be ready. But I have occasionally seen one
or two washing away as usual, even in heavy rain; and I fancy, from
appearances, they were then purifying their own garments.
* * * * *
To what extent theatres are open, I have no means of stating. I believe
that in Paris and other large French towns, if not elsewhere, the
theatres are in full operation.
* * * * *
In places where musical bands play, as at Interlachen, the music
proceeds just as on ordinary days—once, twice, or three times a day,
according to the custom of the place; but it gathers to it all the
idlers, and is therefore generally listened to by far greater crowds
than during the week. Nor is the music different in character from what
is usually performed. There is no attempt to compromise matters by
playing sacred tunes. Not improbably, in some places, there may be a
better selection of secular music than usual; ‘classical music’ may be
attempted. At Cannes, although it is a thoroughly English settlement,
the band plays on Sunday near the Mairie. At Mentone the playing took
place outside the _cirque_, near to some of the churches, so that the
worshippers had to pass by it to reach them.
* * * * *
Where there are Galleries or Museums, Sunday is usually an open or free
day, no payment being exacted. At Naples the Museum, and at Florence
the Picture Galleries and the grounds of the Royal Pitti Palace, are
open to the public, the only other day in the week on which the Museum
and Galleries are free being Thursdays. Ascension Day, however, seems
to be regarded as more holy than Sunday, for it happened at Florence,
while we were there, and falling upon a Thursday, the Galleries were
closed. The Louvre in Paris is open on Sunday, but is closed on Monday,
to be cleaned. The Capitoline Museum in Rome (belonging to Government)
is open on Sundays gratis, but as a rule galleries as well as shops are
closed on Sundays in Rome.
* * * * *
The Casino at Monte Carlo is always open on Sundays, and was a
source of attraction to many of the foreign visitors at Mentone, and
sometimes, though more rarely, even to such English people as were not
very strict in their views.
* * * * *
The Carnival proceeded at Nice the same as on the other day or days on
which it was held. It was probably then a grander affair, and I believe
drew to it much greater crowds—many, though not many English, going to
see it from Mentone, and, no doubt, from all the surrounding parts.
* * * * *