Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
only represent a portion of the work, and they are at least short of
the figures given in the prefatory ‘note’ on the Protestant Churches of
France.
* * * * *
In some cases, as at Biarritz, French service is conducted in the
English Church; in others, as at Lucerne and Chateau d’Œx, the English
service is held in the native Protestant Church.
* * * * *
At Mentone, the French Protestant Church, under the pastoral care of a
most worthy man, M. Delapierre, is largely attended by English–speaking
people. Indeed, I would say that English, Scotch, and Americans of
all denominations form during the season by far the principal part
of the congregation. We used almost regularly to attend this church
during one of the Sunday services, going to one of the other churches
for the other service. A layman commenced by reading a short liturgy
or formulary of devotion, then a portion of Scripture, and, having
given out a hymn or canticle, as it is termed, left the pulpit, and
the minister taking his place, after extempore prayer, preached a
sermon. M. Delapierre spoke slowly and distinctly, and it was easy,
comparatively, to follow him. His thoughts were always good and
striking, though simple, often rising to an elevated and earnest
eloquence, calculated to make a deep impression. He was much respected
and esteemed by all, but unfortunately was, or rather is, a man of
delicate health; so that he only took one of the Sunday services, and
had for a short time to leave Mentone for relaxation and change of air.
His assistants (young men) we never could follow so well. Hymn–books,
with the canticles set to music, were placed in all the pews; and
generally at the close of the service a doxology was sung, being a
verse commencing, ‘Gloire soit au Saint Esprit,’ to the tune called
Hursley, the old German melody to which the hymn ‘Sun of my Soul’
has been wedded. There is a striking and puzzling peculiarity in the
French singing, for the words are not sung as spoken. Thus _père_ is
pronounced _peray_. The singing also is in slow time. The Communion
was dispensed on the first Sunday of the month, all who desired being,
without distinction of sect, invited to attend, and was conducted very
much in the same way as in Congregational churches at home.
* * * * *
We once witnessed in this church the baptism of an infant. The father
and mother, nurse and baby, and another man and woman—all stood up in
front of the reading–desk below the pulpit, to which M. Delapierre
descended, and took the baby, which had been squalling, over his
left arm. Holding up his hand, and looking down upon it, its great
eyes looked up into his either in terror or in wonder, and all was
still, not even the water sprinkling disturbing its equanimity. The
preliminary service or address seemed to be somewhat long.