Your National Parks, with Detailed Information for Tourists
John Stuart Mill · en
"Finally, account must be taken of the exceeding fickleness of the
weather conditions on the mountain. Only guides familiar with
Rainier's many moods can presume to foretell whether the day will turn
out favorable for a climb or not. What may look to the uninitiated
like harmless, fleecy vapors on the summit may be the forerunners of a
sudden snowstorm which no one could hope to live through. A majority
of those who have perished on the mountain have been overcome by
blizzard-like storms. Such storms may occur even in midsummer, and on
the summit are always attended by fierce gales against which it is
impossible to hold one's footing."
The ascent is generally made from Paradise Park over the rocky ridge
known as Gibraltar. Paradise Park lies near timber-line at an altitude
of 5500 feet; as the altitude of the summit is 14,408 feet, the total
climb is a little over 8900 feet in a distance of about 7 miles. The
start is generally made about 1 o'clock in the morning in order that
the return may be made before dark; it is also advisable to climb
beyond the snow-fields before the surface becomes softened by the sun.
By sunrise one may expect to reach the base of the Cowlitz Cleaver at
an altitude of 10,000 feet.
"The ascent of the Cowlitz Cleaver is quite taxing, being mostly over
rough, angular lava blocks. By 8 o'clock, as a rule, the base of
Gibraltar Rock is reached. A narrow ledge is followed along the face
of the cliff, part of the way overhung by rock masses and huge
icicles, and this ledge leads to the base of a narrow chute between
the ice of the upper Nisqually Glacier and the body of Gibraltar. This
chute offers the most serious difficulties in the ascent. Ropes are
usually suspended from the cliffs, whereby one may assist himself
upward. It is wise to move one at a time, as there is ever danger of
the persons above starting rock débris and ice fragments that may
injure those below. The ascent and descent of the chute are therefore
inevitably time-consuming. Ordinarily the saddle above Gibraltar
(12,679 feet) is not reached until 10 o'clock.
"From Gibraltar on there remains only a long snow-slope to climb, but
this snow-slope is often exceedingly fatiguing. Huge, gaping crevasses
develop in it which must be skillfully avoided by détours. Freshly
fallen snow may be so deep that one plunges into it to the waist, or
else the snow may have melted out into tapering spines and so-called
honeycombs many feet high, among which one cannot travel without
considerable exertion.
"The rim of the south crater is usually reached about 11 o'clock. It
is always bare of snow, and shelter from the high gales may be found
behind the great rock blocks on the crest. Metal cases are left here
in which the tourist may inscribe the record of his ascent.