I could have spent the whole time in contemplating these magnificent
landskips, if I had not found still greater pleasure in my
conversation with the inhabitants. In my observations you will find a
slight sketch of their manners, their simplicity, their equality of
soul, and of that peacefulness of mind, which renders them happy by an
exemption from pain, rather than by the enjoyment of pleasure. But
what I was unable to describe, and which is almost impossible to be
conceived, is their disinterested humanity, and hospitable zeal to
oblige every stranger whom chance or curiosity brings to visit them.
This I myself continually experienced, I who was entirely unknown, and
who was conducted from place to place only by a common guide. When, in
the evening, I arrived in any hamlet at the foot of a mountain, each
of the inhabitants was so eager to have me lodge at his house, that I
was always embarrassed which to accept; and he who obtained the
preference seemed so well pleased that, at first, I supposed his joy
to arise from a lucrative prospect. But I was amazed, after having
used the house like an inn, to find my host not only refuse to accept
the least gratuity, but offended that it was offered. I found it
universally the same. So that it was true hospitality, which, from its
unusual ardour, I had mistaken for avarice. So perfectly disinterested
are this people, that during eight days, it was not in my power to
leave one dollar among them. In short, how is it possible to spend
money in a country where the landlord will not be paid for his
provisions, nor the servant for his trouble, and where there are no
beggars to be found? Nevertheless, money is by no means abundant in
the upper Valais, and for that very reason the inhabitants are not in
want; for the necessaries of life are plentiful, yet nothing is sent
out of the country; they are not luxurious at home, nor is the peasant
less laborious. If ever they have more money they will grow poor? and
of this they are so sensible that they tread upon mines of gold which
they are determined never to open.