Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
When the chestnuts have been gathered, then in November they are dried
in _séchoirs_. These are small square structures with a door and window
on one side, and on the other three or more long narrow loopholes,
called in the country _carézéïros_, that are never closed. A fire of
coals is lighted and kept burning incessantly in the drying-house, and
the smoke passes through shelves on which the chestnuts are laid, in
stages, and escapes by the loopholes. To any one unaccustomed to the
atmosphere in these _séchoirs_, it is hard to endure the smoke, and
one stands the risk of being asphyxiated. Nevertheless the peasants
spend two months in the year in these habitations, amidst cobwebs and
soot, swarming with mice and rats, and the smoke at once acrid and
moist, for in drying the chestnuts exude a greenish fluid that falls
in a rain from the shelves. The natives do not seem to mind the dirt
and smell of these horrible holes. Moreover, if there be in a village
any one suffering from phthisis, at the end of autumn the patient is
taken by the relations in his or her bed, and this is deposited in a
corner of the _séchoir_. The sick person is not allowed to leave the
drying-house, and it is a singular phenomenon that not infrequently,
under the influence of the heat and the sulphurous smoke, the
tuberculosis is arrested, and the sufferer lives on for many long years.
It is economy that drives the peasants to live in the drying-houses. As
they are forced to light fires for the chestnuts, they extinguish those
on their hearths in the farm-houses. Why have two fires going when one
will suffice? So the peasant bids his wife and children cook their soup
at the brazier in the _séchoir_. And he himself, driven under shelter
by the rain and cold, brings to the common hearth his hatchet and long
strips of wild chestnut, of which he fashions hoops for barrels or
baskets for the collectors of olives. Through the two months from the
Jour des Morts to Christmas Eve the _séchoir_ is the village centre; to
it flock the poorest members of the commune, who have no drying-houses
of their own.
The fêtes in Hérault are often very curious, and evidently date from an
early period, and are reminiscences of paganism.
For instance, the Carotat at Béziers on Ascension Day has nothing
Christian about it. Till 1878, on the eve, the servants of the Consuls
were wont to parade the town with music going before them, and knock at
the doors of houses asking for contributions. They were followed by a
clumsy wooden structure covered with hide to represent a camel; and all
largesses received were put into the mouth of the beast.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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