Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
But if the Polignacs were meddlesome neighbours of the see, they lent
lustre to Le Velay. These masters of the rock were brave nobles.
They fought in the Crusades; they fought the English. They espoused
the faith, the passions, the fervour of their native land. In every
generation illustrious marriages added to the splendour of their
escutcheon. As the feudal towers of Polignac dominated, and dominate
still, the green and flowery land that lies spread below it, so does
the name of Polignac dominate the history of Velay. The race was one
that abounded in energy, was robust and patriotic.
Velay was ravaged by the Free Companies, and summoned Du Guesclin to
its aid against them. Of its troubles in the Wars of Religion I shall
have to speak in the next chapter. Le Puy was occupied by the Leaguers,
who made themselves masters of nearly every stronghold in Velay, and it
was not till some years after Henry IV. had come to the throne that it
submitted to his authority.
The Revolution brought the same results in Velay as elsewhere; the
cathedral of Le Puy was pillaged, the monasteries destroyed, and a
certain amount of blood was shed; sixty priests were hung or shot,
and many nobles guillotined. Since then it has enjoyed tranquillity,
only recently ruffled by the taking of the Inventories, leading to the
breaking open of the church doors.
FOOTNOTES:
[3] _Jean de la Roche_, Paris, Calmann-Lévy.
[4] See "The Cañons of Southern France," by A. T. Jukes-Browne, in
_Natural Science_, vol. vi., 1895.
CHAPTER III
LE PUY
The basin of Le Puy—Situation of the city—Mont Anis
and l'Aiguilhe—How to reach Le Puy—The Velauni—Their
capital—Transferred—The feverstone—Temple of Adido—Monument of
Scutarius—Baptistery—The Black Virgin—The cathedral—Murder of a
chorister by Jews—Western entrance and façade—Cloister—Vaulting
of nave—Tower—Lay canonry—Paintings—Walls—Old houses—S. Michel de
l'Aiguilhe—How did the builders work?—S. Laurent—Du Guesclin—The
Bible of Theodulf—Wealth of the see—Bad bishops—Bertrand de
Chalençon—William de la Roue—Revolt of the people—Murder
of the bailiff—The White Hoods—Antoine de S. Nectaire—His
sister—Massacre ordered—The bishop at Fay-le-Froid—Espaly—Vidal
Guyard—Capture of castle—Defence of Le Puy—Church militant—The old
gunner—Christopher d'Allègre—The Huguenots retire—The Revolution.
Assuredly no city in Europe occupies a site so fantastic as does the
capital of the Velay. The high wind-and-snow-swept tableland to south
and west falls away and forms a pleasant basin covered with vineyards
and sprinkled over with white villas or summer-houses of the citizens,
as if there had been a giant's wedding and much rice had been thrown.
The Borne, that has hitherto struggled through ravines and tumbled in
cascades, here ceases to be boisterous, and puts on an air of placidity
as it glides past the cathedral city.
[Illustration: WEST FRONT OF CATHEDRAL, LE PUY]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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