Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
In this basin the climate is mild compared with that of the uplands,
and the soil is fertile. The train from Arvant curves round the town
before it settles into the station, much as a dog turns about before he
lies down to snooze.
What at once arrests the eye on approaching Le Puy is that out of the
very midst of the basin up start two rocks; the largest is Mont Anis,
and about this, up its steep sides, the town scrambles. On a ledge
above all the houses is the cathedral, and soaring above that again
is the rock of Corneille, crowned by a colossal statue of the Virgin
fifty-two feet high, and the largest in the world. It is run out of two
hundred Russian cannons taken at Sebastopol, and stands on a pedestal
of twenty feet. It is a disfigurement to the town, for it dwarfs the
venerable cathedral. The site was formerly occupied by a ruined tower.
The other rock is the Aiguilhe, the Needle, on the summit of which
stands the church of S. Michel, reached by 265 steps cut in the face of
the rock.
The town is composed of houses grappling to every ledge; the streets
are stone stairs, and the _place_ is staged on steps. When to this is
added that the cathedral is unique in its way, a marvel of Romanesque
architecture, treated in original fashion, then it will be conceived
that Le Puy is an attractive place to visit.
But when we come to consider how it may be reached we are beset with
difficulties. The direct line from Paris is undoubtedly that leading
to Vichy, but the trains from Vichy onward do not correspond, and are
moreover omnibus trains that loiter for six hours and a half over
seventy-four miles.
Nor can we reach Le Puy by the main line from Paris to Nîmes in a
day, for at the junction, S. George's d'Aubrac, the trains do not
communicate, and there is no tolerable inn at this junction where one
can spend the night.
The third way is by Lyons and S. Etienne, and this is by far the best,
for by it the whole journey can be effected in a day; but for that one
must travel by express first-class as far as Lyons.
The people anciently occupying Le Velay were the Velauni, and they had
their capital at Rheusio, so called from _rhew_, the Celtic for cold;
and that was at S. Paulien. There also was the first seat of a bishop,
but S. Evodius (351-374), whose name has been corrupted into Vosy,
transferred his throne to Le Puy, then called Anisium. It is supposed
that a dolmen stood on the platform now occupied by the cathedral, and
that a large slab of trachyte laid down in the porch, its blue colour
distinguishing it from the rest, was the capstone. This slab is called
the Feverstone, and those with fire in their blood were wont to sleep a
night upon it. The earliest mention of a cure performed by this means
is in the time of S. Vosy. To the dolmen, if it ever existed, succeeded
a Gallo-Roman temple dedicated to a local deity, Adido, conjointly with
Augustus.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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