Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
Formerly at the head of the fourth landing was a central doorway
leading into the nave by another flight of steps continued inside
the church; and it was said of Notre Dame du Puy, that you went in
at the navel and came out at the ears, _i.e._ at the lateral doors
in the transepts. But the central entrance has been walled up, and a
floor been laid over these steps. Access is now obtained to the nave
by a side flight that turns round the church and gives admission in
the south transept. The corresponding lateral flight gives access to
the magnificent cloister, partially closed by a gate of intricate and
beautiful ironwork. The arcade in the cloister rests on twin columns
with richly carved capitals, no two alike, and the wall space above the
arcade is filled in with mosaic work of red, yellow, white, and black.
The interior of the church is not less remarkable than the exterior.
Originally it consisted of a small square basilica, now forming the
retro-choir; this was prolonged into nave with aisles, and transepts
were added forming a Greek cross, with a dome at the intersection.
Later on the church was carried further westward, and the singular
western portion, a nave over a porch, was raised in the twelfth century.
[Illustration: PORCH, CATHEDRAL, LE PUY]
Each bay of the nave is surmounted by an octagonal cupola. Two sides
contain windows looking north and south. Two sides have also windows
sustained on an arch flung across the nave, and looking into it. The
four other sides of the octagons are in the depth of the wall. The
lateral south porch, opening on to the little Place du For, where is
the episcopal palace, is a noble piece of work. Two bold arches give
access to it. To the left is a doorway only opened for a pope to pass
through; the other gives admission to ordinary personages into the
transept.
The tower is a campanile detached from the church, unbuttressed, and
though fine, is too small for the size of the minster. But this is due
to the fact that every inch of space on the rock was precious, and had
to be economised. Accordingly a tower of greater bulk at base would
have encroached on the way of access to the basilica. There are two
more doorways, one, further on, a bold and daring sweep that spans not
the entrance only, but also the little street. A third is on the north
side.
Until this year, 1906, the head of the French State, King, Emperor or
President was _ex officio_ lay canon of Le Puy, just as our King is a
lay canon of S. David's. But with the separation of Church and State in
France, this has ceased, and M. Loubet was the last of the lay canons
of Le Puy.
At one time there existed a promising school of painting in Le Velay,
but it was killed by the troubles of the Wars of Religion. The frescoes
in the cathedral and in some of the churches exhibit great merit. Such
as remain, unfortunately very few, may be best studied in the Museum,
where are accurate copies.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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